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Routes in Mescalito

Bed of Nails T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Black Widow Hollow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bloodline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
C11H17NO3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Cat in the Hat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cat in the Phat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Centerfold T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Chasing Shadows T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cookie Monster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crunchy Cat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Dark Shadows T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Shadows (Full) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edge Dressing T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Excellent Adventure T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Extra Credit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart of Darkness T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Left of Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Mescalito - Original Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mescalito - South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Negro Blanco T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Next Century, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
OB Button T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
OB Fist T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parental Guidance T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pauligk Pillar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pauline's Pentacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peyote Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pine Nuts T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rabbit's Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Risky Business T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sandstone Sandwich T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Short Circuit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slot Machine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Splitting Hares T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This Ain't No Disco T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Too Many Tantrums T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown (Thing 1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Walker Spur, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wasp, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Welcome to Red Rocks T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
When A Stranger Calls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Y2K T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 550 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bob Logerquist, John Willams
Page Views: 2,626 total, 17/month
Shared By: Francis Baker (fran) on Mar 16, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route follows a corner/flake system up the east face of the Mescalito. Start at two parallel cracks 75' south of a huge left facing corner.

P1 Follow either crack over a low bulge, via good face holds, up into a chimney. Layback and stem up the chimney, using the crack in the right corner, to a ledge with bushes(optional belay). Hand traverse left into the corner and build a belay. For the left-corner anchor, a couple very small micro-cams might help as well as climbing up a move or two to place a reassuringly larger piece. 180' 5.7

P2 Upward via flakes and the large right facing corner. Continue up crack on right. Finally, move right under the roof and up into the chimney/cave. Belay from the cave.

P3 From the cave go up the low-angle right-facing corner. Exit left after a white bulge, via cracks and plates, eventually reaching Cat in the Hat.

Either rappel Cat in the Hat or continue upward to the summit.

Protection

A standard rack plus a #4 and 4.5 would be helpful.
Rprops
North Las Vegas
  5.9 PG13
Rprops   North Las Vegas
  5.9 PG13
Some of the most fun I have had in the park. Every time I left the belay I would say "5.5, right?" and then launch into another stellar pitch. Here's how we did it.

5.8+ 100' Take the right crack over the bulge, climb up into the chimney and belay off cracks in the back.
5.8 70' Climb the right side of the chimney, headed toward the tree. Do the hand traverse and belay after.
5.9 180' Climb straight up the corner, over the scary flakes. I ended up slinging the highest one and standing on it to ascend, staying in the corner as opposed to climbing over to the left. The rock is great and movement aesthetic. Up to the roof, around and up to the HUGE cave.
5.5 200' Take the low angle crack/ramp to the top.

Down scramble to Cat in Hat anchor, rap with a single 70m. Nov 4, 2017
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
  5.8 PG13
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
  5.8 PG13
Have done this enjoyable route twice. It'd be nice if the below were in the description ...

Just above the initial flakes on P2, one can stay in the corner for some enjoyable and protectable climbing. It may even be 5.7 depending on ability.

Also, the described P2 is 160 feet - from just after the hand traverse to the belay cave after traversing up and right.

The described P3 ending does not match Handren's but we have done it as a fourth pitch (i.e., "Exit left after a white bulge, via cracks and plates, eventually reaching Cat in the Hat").

For Handren's P3 (~140 feet), stay in the cleft of the gigantic flake, chimneying the wide for a bit before hiking into a kind of large cave or alcove at climber's left. Stem up a few moves and reach for a hidden crack to exit at a belay ledge on the far side of this alcove (~5.5 with scant/no pro). From this end of P3, it is about 20 or 30 feet climber's left to the end of the first rap of Cat in the Hat.

Oct 17, 2016
Mark B
  5.8+ R
Mark B  
  5.8+ R
There were at least two moves on the first pitch (i.e. pulling over the lower roof and the hand traverse near the top) that we felt were in the 5.8+ or possibly 5.9 range. On the P1 hand traverse (about 20'), we found essentially no sizeable foot holds; perhaps they have broken off thereby changing the difficulty of the route... On the second pitch, the step left out of the corner and onto the face (up and left from just above the detached flake) was ADVENTUROUS with uncertain pro! Further up, moving from the lower part of the "mid pitch chimney" right into the "shallow grove" you'll find a few "mid-sized" loose blocks and challenging pro (both contributing to what we felt were a few moves of 5.8+R or maybe even 5.9). Finally, we felt the right moving under cling / face traverse into the upper chimney of P2 was also in the realm of 5.8.

Enjoy! Mar 24, 2016
Jason D. Martin  
5.8 R
I climbed this route today and found it to be nothing less than an "adventure climb." It often ascends flaring chimneys and includes a couple of hard to protect traverses. It was definately a fun climb, but it was also significantly more difficult and dangerous than we expected.

It amazes me that the route was ever considered a 5.5 climb. I felt that if you stayed on route that it clocked in at about 5.8, and that if you got off route the rating climbed up to about 5.9.

There were definately tricky sections on dangerous rock. The route always had enough protection, but it was not always easy to identify. As a result, this route should not be considered by beginning level leaders.

This route is a great adventure for an experienced team. The feature you climb is definately aesthetic and the climbing is interesting. If you're looking for an adventure, there's one to be found here.

Jason

Apr 26, 2005
Francis Baker (fran)
Las Vegas,NV
  5.7
Francis Baker (fran)   Las Vegas,NV
  5.7
When we did this route, we mistakenly followed the corner to its top. We continued up and to the left and slung a large bush. One long rappel, with two ropes, down a steep face to another bush. This rappel leads to a horn with slings and rings. From there, two ropes and a little down climbing put us just up gully from the start of "Cat in the Hat". The route was on good rock and protected well. I found some moves hard and scary for its original 5.5 rating. Mar 19, 2005