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Routes in Vampire Rock
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3Ts S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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A.C.E. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blood Doll S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Chupacabra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Climb-Eye-Knight S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crack of Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fear of Sunlight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Heart of the Narrows S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Le Stat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Monkey's Sister S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Monkey's Uncle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pin Cushion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Politician, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Red Sonja T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stage Fright T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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That's Weak S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Transylverlina S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Trash It and Move On T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Vampire, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wanker S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Wanker (upper) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin, Summer 1999 |
| Page Views: | 270 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Rolofson on Dec 1, 2021 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2023 - updated
Details
W. McCurry, NF Info Deliv. Lead, Arapahoe/Roosevelt NFS: The USFS began annual area closures in BC beginning 2/1/23. The closures include Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This is a description of the upper 2 pitches (sections) of Wanker, since the route description for Wanker is only for the lower pitch (section). While guidebooks may refer to this route as 3 pitches, it is normally climbed in one pitch. There are anchors atop each pitch (or section). Between 2007 & 2013, I repeated this route every year. It became my favorite climb at Vampire Rock. A helmet is advised for the belayer. Even though the rock is pretty solid, I was almost hit by a sizable piece of rock that my partner accidentally broke off below the anchor on pitch 1.
After climbing the first 50 feet of Wanker (.12a), clip a bolt just right of the anchor for pro with a long draw or sling, rather than clip the anchor. This will keep the rope line straighter.
Pitch 2 (.12b). Climb over the roof. This begins from jugs underneath to reach a jam at the lip. Clip the 2nd bolt, and crank a show stopper crux getting over the lip. Once standing at the lip, there is a bolt with a chain to clip, before balancing up the slab to a jug. Clip a bolt to the right, & clip out of the chain. Move up right to a no hands rest stance at an anchor, 4 bolts & a 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 3 (5.11d/12a). Clip 2 close bolts above the anchor, putting a long sling on the 1st bolt and a long draw on the 2nd bolt. Clip out of the anchor and the last bolt on pitch 2 to reduce rope drag. Ascend a tiered overhang with a final crux past the 4th bolt. Gain a sloping ledge above the lip. Move up right to the anchor, 5 bolts & a 3 bolt anchor.
Cleaning can be tricky. Use the left two anchor bolts, not all three. Lower down pitch 3 and notice that your rope is running in the best spot on the final lip. Stop at the pitch 2 anchor and clip in. Untie and pull your rope down. Lower off the 2nd anchor, which works well to clean the rest of the route (pitch 2 and 1).
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