Type: Sport
FA: Steve Sangdahl, John Baldwin, 2000
Page Views: 470 total · 2/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 6, 2002 with updates from Carl Schaefer
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

54 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


Between The Bureau on the left and Transylverina on the right is a new line that takes off from the talus and heads toward two shallow roof systems. The line splits at the 30 foot point into left and right hand variations. Near the second roof, the right hand line splits again for an easy finish on the right that dodges the roof move. The interesting sequence through the roof moves left and then steps back over the roof just before the anchor. Good rock, nice pro, interesting climbing, and all rather benign since the climbing is mostly in the feet.


Now 10 draws, a rope, and an anchor with two Mussy hooks.


This route (the straight up variation) is called "Monkey's Uncle" 5.10d. It is located approx. 30' right of "Wanker" (behind tree and boulder). 3 variations exist; going left from 3rd bolt out small roof to thin holds on headwall is "A.C.E." 5.12a . The middle line up small corner and small roof is "Monkey's Uncle" 5.10d . The easy right hand finish is "Monkey's Sister" 5.10b/c . All end at same 3 bolt anchor. FAs of all three routes; Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin, summer 2000. Jul 11, 2002
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
We really enjoyed this climb, the multiple small roofs kept this interesting to the end. One question though, Stephen, how bad were the large flakes at the last roof before they were glued (the middle 10d version I guess from your description)? It seemed to us that if they were pulled out it might have made the climb an 11 or so (but who knows, right?). That was the only drawback for me, seeing all that glue. Just wanted to get your thoughts on why you wanted to save them. Sep 2, 2002
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
The climbing is good on these routes.
However, I feel that a couple of the bolts could have been placed in better positions, especially for those who are climbing the Monkey's Sister variation at their limit. Jun 15, 2008
Peter J. Beyel
Glenwood Springs
Peter J. Beyel   Glenwood Springs
Is this route chipped? Some of those edges feel too perfect. Jul 17, 2013
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
When the bolts lines split, I went up right and then traversed back left under and then over the roof. Felt just solid 5.10 climbing without any 10+ to me. Trying to hug the bolt line straight up seemed a bit contrived. Maybe that is how it becomes 10+. Above the roof felt harder than below for me. Gotta give right until the chains. Either way fun climbing. Either 5.10 variation worth a go. Oct 5, 2017
Mark Rolofson
Mark Rolofson  
Climbing the crux past the 8th bolt directly up into the small right-facing dihedral has always felt more like 5.11. I pinch the arete of the corner & make some rather funky moves. To make this crux .10d, it seems necessary to climb right of the 8th bolt & then traverse back left under the roof. The 5.11 way is more nicely protected right at the bolt. Sep 9, 2018