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Routes in Vampire Rock

A.C.E. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Doll S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chupacabra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Climb-Eye-Knight S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack of Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Sunlight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heart of the Narrows S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Le Stat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey's Sister S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey's Uncle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pin Cushion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Politician, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
That's Weak S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trash It and Move On T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vampire, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wanker S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Steve Sangdahl, John Baldwin, 2000
Page Views: 329 total, 2/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 6, 2002 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Between The Bureau on the left and Transylverina on the right is a new line that takes off from the talus and heads toward two shallow roof systems. The line splits at the 30 foot point into left and right hand variations. Near the second roof, the right hand line splits again for an easy finish on the right that dodges the roof move. The interesting sequence through the roof moves left and then steps back over the roof just before the anchor. Good rock, nice pro, interesting climbing, and all rather benign since the climbing is mostly in the feet.

Protection

Now 10 draws, a rope, and an anchor with two Mussy hooks.
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.10
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.10
When the bolts lines split, I went up right and then traversed back left under and then over the roof. Felt just solid 5.10 climbing without any 10+ to me. Trying to hug the bolt line straight up seemed a bit contrived. Maybe that is how it becomes 10+. Above the roof felt harder than below for me. Gotta give right until the chains. Either way fun climbing. Either 5.10 variation worth a go. Oct 5, 2017
Peter J. Beyel
Glenwood Springs
  5.10d
Peter J. Beyel   Glenwood Springs
  5.10d
Is this route chipped? Some of those edges feel too perfect. Jul 17, 2013
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
 
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
 
The climbing is good on these routes.
However, I feel that a couple of the bolts could have been placed in better positions, especially for those who are climbing the Monkey's Sister variation at their limit. Jun 15, 2008
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
We really enjoyed this climb, the multiple small roofs kept this interesting to the end. One question though, Stephen, how bad were the large flakes at the last roof before they were glued (the middle 10d version I guess from your description)? It seemed to us that if they were pulled out it might have made the climb an 11 or so (but who knows, right?). That was the only drawback for me, seeing all that glue. Just wanted to get your thoughts on why you wanted to save them. Sep 2, 2002
This route (the straight up variation) is called "Monkey's Uncle" 5.10d. It is located approx. 30' right of "Wanker" (behind tree and boulder). 3 variations exist; going left from 3rd bolt out small roof to thin holds on headwall is "A.C.E." 5.12a . The middle line up small corner and small roof is "Monkey's Uncle" 5.10d . The easy right hand finish is "Monkey's Sister" 5.10b/c . All end at same 3 bolt anchor. FAs of all three routes; Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin, summer 2000. Jul 11, 2002