Type: Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Horan, 1996
Page Views: 524 total · 3/month
Shared By: richard magill on Jun 21, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

30 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure Details


This is a fun, two-pitch route that looks like a complete slab from the ground - be prepared for a surprisingly steep crux.

Pitch 1 starts with a 10+ move right off the deck over a boulder. You get a clip before you start, but make sure your belayer is paying close attention. Twenty feet of easy climbing leads to a headwall that is not slabby, but may even be overhanging by a degree or two. Work up a technical diagonal undercling to a long reach and a clip - followed by another long reach, all with horrid feet. This is the crux (11d). Then you finish with an 11a slab.

Pitch 2 is the rightmost of the two lines that leave from the ledge. This pitch has excellent stone and nice continuity (11c).

Le Stat is the rightmost of all the lines on Vampire. After you come up the trail, go right about 30 feet to find it.


P1: 9 bolts. P2: 9 bolts.


- No Photos -
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
The crux on P1 seemed hard for the grade, but it also appeared as though there were two ways to do it: going straight up from the finger ledge and then traversing left or traversing left on the finger ledge and chucking for the horn on very bad feet (this seemed pretty hard). Good stone despite the whipping. Jun 8, 2004
First pitch, on site, felt hard for the grade. Not what you would expect for a Boulder Canyon 11d. This seems like it would be a hard on sight on less you were told what to expect and prepared for the dyno. After failing first time up trying to move statically thru the crux. Second go I moved left on the finger tip crack and dynoed for the horn with bad feet. Once executed it didn’t feel to bad. Kind of a quick boulder problem move. Perhaps that is the reason for the 11d rating. I am not sure what I would rate it for the onsight. Jun 15, 2005
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
I think 11+ is a good rating for the first pitch. A hard undercling move (FULL extension deadpoint for me) gets you to the bolt before the crux. I tried both ways (straight up and left) and think left is a bit more reasonable for an verage height person. I was nowhere close to reaching the crimp flake straight up (I'm 5'10").

I started up the ramp directly under the crux section instead of starting on the left with the 10+ boulder move traversing up and right. Personally, I think this way is more straight-forward.

This pitch is nothing to write home about but the pitches above are pretty cool! May 14, 2009
It's undeniable that this routes features decent climbing on good rock, but the cruxes were very beta-dependent; some of the toughest hard 11s I've been on. I think that calling the second pitch 11c is misleading, however. While the crux is less steep than the P1 crux, the holds are smaller and the moves more balance-y. 11++ for both pitches. Jun 22, 2010
mtoensing   Boulder
Haha, I agree with Aaron's 5.11++ rating. It makes things more interesting. Jul 17, 2011
Christopher Soper
Northglenn, CO
Christopher Soper   Northglenn, CO
Climbed this yesterday, and the posted comments are completely accurate. The feet are really bad at the crux, I had to inspect the wall for a while before I found something usable. I also thought getting the second bolt was a little sketchy, but maybe I just did it wrong. Mar 12, 2018
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
This is a strange route at least the first pitch anyway. A next-to-useless first bolt protects a very difficult, contrived start that can be bypassed on the right by several options, then a second bolt protects some easy climbing, followed by a traverse that leads you to groundfall terrain for what felt like a reach to clip the third. The 4th bolt is just a few feet above that? The panel above is fun but hard to read initially, and the jump to the jug is pretty stout for any 11+ I'm familiar with. Some entertaining slab climbing gets the anchor.

I'll be back to check out the second pitch in the hope that it will be better. Moving the first bolt up and right and lowering the 3rd would really improve the first pitch. Jun 21, 2018
J. Albers
J. Albers   Colorado
@ Peter ^^
I agree with you Peter. I have climbed this multiple times, and every time I get on it, my partner and I comment on the fact that the bolting at the bottom is pretty bad (there is definitely some groundfall potential). I climb carefully through this section, and it's okay for me, but I probably wouldn't recommend it to someone who is newish to climbing, and yeah, the last move feels pretty 12- to me, especially considering the upper two pitches are both rated 11+ and are quite a bit easier. All of this said, it is a nice climb, and even the bottom with the janky bolting is fun. Jun 22, 2018