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Routes in Vampire Rock

A.C.E. S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Blood Doll S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chupacabra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Climb-Eye-Knight S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack of Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Sunlight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heart of the Narrows S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Le Stat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey's Sister S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey's Uncle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pin Cushion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Politician, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
That's Weak S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trash It and Move On T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vampire, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Wanker S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Horan, 1996
Page Views: 300 total · 2/month
Shared By: richard magill on Jun 21, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is a fun, two-pitch route that looks like a complete slab from the ground - be prepared for a surprisingly steep crux.

Pitch 1 starts with a 10+ move right off the deck over a boulder. You get a clip before you start, but make sure your belayer is paying close attention. Twenty feet of easy climbing leads to a headwall that is not slabby, but may even be overhanging by a degree or two. Work up a technical diagonal undercling to a long reach and a clip - followed by another long reach, all with horrid feet. This is the crux (11d). Then you finish with an 11a slab.

Pitch 2 is the rightmost of the two lines that leave from the ledge. This pitch has excellent stone and nice continuity (11c).

Le Stat is the rightmost of all the lines on Vampire. After you come up the trail, go right about 30 feet to find it.

Protection

P1: 9 bolts. P2: 9 bolts.

Photos

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Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
The crux on P1 seemed hard for the grade, but it also appeared as though there were two ways to do it: going straight up from the finger ledge and then traversing left or traversing left on the finger ledge and chucking for the horn on very bad feet (this seemed pretty hard). Good stone despite the whipping. Jun 8, 2004
First pitch is very hard for the grade. Not what you would expect for a Boulder Canyon 11d. This would be a hard on sight on less you were prepared or told what to expect. After failing first time up trying to move statically thru the crux. I moved left on the finger tip crack and dynoed for the horn with bad feet. Once executed it seemed not bad. Kind of a quick boulder problem move. Seemed hard the first time up but once I did it in retrospect it did not seem too bad. Perhaps that is the reason for the 11d rating. I am not sure what I would rate it for the onsight. Jun 15, 2005
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
I think 11+ is a good rating for the first pitch. A hard undercling move (FULL extension deadpoint for me) gets you to the bolt before the crux. I tried both ways (straight up and left) and think left is a bit more reasonable for an verage height person. I was nowhere close to reaching the crimp flake straight up (I'm 5'10").

I started up the ramp directly under the crux section instead of starting on the left with the 10+ boulder move traversing up and right. Personally, I think this way is more straight-forward.

This pitch is nothing to write home about but the pitches above are pretty cool! May 14, 2009
It's undeniable that this routes features decent climbing on good rock, but the cruxes were very beta-dependent; some of the toughest hard 11s I've been on. I think that calling the second pitch 11c is misleading, however. While the crux is less steep than the P1 crux, the holds are smaller and the moves more balance-y. 11++ for both pitches. Jun 22, 2010
mtoensing
Boulder
  5.11+
mtoensing   Boulder
  5.11+
Haha, I agree with Aaron's 5.11++ rating. It makes things more interesting. Jul 17, 2011
Christopher Soper
Northglenn, CO
  5.12a
Christopher Soper   Northglenn, CO
  5.12a
Climbed this yesterday, and the posted comments are completely accurate. The feet are really bad at the crux, I had to inspect the wall for a while before I found something usable. I also thought getting the second bolt was a little sketchy, but maybe I just did it wrong. Mar 12, 2018

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