Type: Sport
FA: Sandghal and Baldwin, 1999
Page Views: 744 total · 4/month
Shared By: Aeon Aki on Jul 6, 2002 with updates from Carl Schaefer
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


On the left side of Vampire is a light colored wall leading into a system of roofs at 60 feet. Wanker is the right of two short bolted climbs that finish below the first roof.


Eight bolts to a 2-bolt anchor


Just to clarify; the route known as "the Bureau" and "Wanker"(not "the" wanker)are switched around in the sport guide book. the route listed above is "Wanker". "the Bureau" is actually the left hand route with a chain on the 2nd bolt. "Wanker" 5.12a/b is the next line to the right and goes all the way thru both the 4'roof and the 7'roof in one long pitch(back clean where appropriate and use long slings to avoid rope drag,60m rope can lower one to ground) This route can also be done in 2 pitches, p1(5.11d)ends below the 4'roof and shares a 2 bolt anchor with the bureau.(the 4th bolt is easy to clip if one heel/toe hooks the left foot in small corner to lock in,the 3rd bolt is just below your feet) p2 is as follows,crank out 1st roof(5.12a/b)climb up and launch out 2nd roof(5.12a)past bolts,fixed wire,and block chained to wall,to a stance above roof at 3 bolt anchor.F.A.;Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin, with Chip Ruckgrabber assisting on "wanker" summer 1999 Also from the shared anchors on bureau and wanker one can traverse 40' to the right to the anchors on "Monkeys Uncle".This is called "Nothin but trouble traverse"5.10b .one can also top-rope the hard roof below the 2nd bolt of this traverse, this is known as "More trouble than its worth"5.12b/c. f.a.of both by sangdahl and baldwin ,summer 2000.hope the beta helps. Jul 11, 2002
Sangdahl's clarification above is quite useful. Nate Adams and I did this route (the right hand route, which I now understand to be Wanker) last summer and we both made the fourth clip without being too scared. I will say it would have been a much more comfortable clip if it were a foot lower, but it is not so bad as is.

Another error in the guidebook is the rating and the noted location of the crux. Nate and I both thought the first roof was 12b and was definitely the crux. The guidebook shows a 12c crux in the second roof, which is no harder than 12a. It also lists 12c as the overall rating, which I was willing to buy as an overall pump crux sort of thing, but Sangdahl says the rating is 12a/b, which is closer to the actual hardest move.

Guidebook corrections aside, this is a steep shady route that really has fun climbing. The 11d section at the 4th clip is tricky and slopey, and the first roof is really puzzling the first time through - it gives you the choice between trying to ooze up a dihedral with holds all going the wrong way, or up a short arete with tiny holds. The second roof isn't so bad, but you get pretty pumped up there.Overall, a very good line - the full 60M route is probably about a dozen clips, and if you do it all the way to the top, it deserves at least 2 stars, maybe 3. Jul 11, 2002
see the comments for the corrected route description. "Wanker" goes to the very end of a 60 M rope, through two roofs and three cruxy sections - very fun! Oct 2, 2002
Nowhere close to 3 stars.I would give 2 stars for the variation which climbs the left line, through the first roof, to the 2nd set of anchors (The Bureau???). The stretch up to the 3rd set of anchors, however, is among the more jingus sections of rock I've climbed in Boulder Canyon. A key block in the roof is attached to the cliff by a vat of glue, and is secured to the cliff, in case it comes off, with a 4-foot chain attached to the last bolt. A few other key loose holds here as well. This section of the route is fully worthy of the coveted cb.com bomb rating. I also felt it was the crux since I onsighted to the 2nd set of chains, but failed in this section (which could possibly, but not likely, be attributed to lack of inspiration instead of increased difficulty).

As for the lower pitches to the 1st set of anchors, I agree with the previous comments on the poorly located 4th bolt on the right line. 3 closely spaced bolts on the lower climbing followed by a spicey crux well above the 3rd bolt getting to the 4th bolt. WTF???!!! A stopper or alien may work in the finger slot, but I find it surprising that gear would be required for a route on such a nearly-gridbolted section of cliff. Jul 11, 2005
David A. Turner
David A. Turner  
Several bolts added to the first pitch, now eight bolts + two for the anchor, make it well protected. This makes a great pitch on its own, and is 12a IMO. Not chipped, glued, or chained as far as I can tell. Sep 5, 2011
David A. Turner
David A. Turner  
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
If you are shorter than the climber in the video, you may find the crux a little more complicated. Have fun! Jul 7, 2012

only did first pitch, based on the bob d book. i had thought the 2nd pitch was the other route. first pitch felt around 11d, but it was pretty hot and humid, which resulted in some frantic prom night groping. really good pitch and nicely protected, although clipping that one bolt is kind of tough. one thing that would improve the first pitch is moving the 5th (i think?) bolt a bit to the left so that the rope isn't trying to get behind your ankle during the sloper slapping. Jul 18, 2012
The entire climb (not just the first pitch) is really worth doing - my most favorite climb on Vampire. It is done in one long pitch was three stages or sections past anchors. The .12a first stage (or pitch) is quite good but not the crux. The second stage, that pulls the first roof, is the crux. It amounts to one show stopper move just above the roof's lip. I call it .12b, but if you've got it wired, it may feel only like .12a. The third & final stage is a brilliant overhang with a cool series of moves (.11d/12a). To reduce rope drag, clip out of the last bolt & anchor on the 2nd stage, & use long slings on the first 2 bolts of the upper stage. There are good no hands rests after each stage of the climb. Overall grade of the route feels like .12b. Reducing rope drag is key, so bring some long draws & 2 ft. slings. To clean, I lower down to the top to the 2nd anchor, untie, & pull the rope down. Then thread & lower off the 2nd anchor to clean the first two stages. Sep 25, 2018