Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Bob Horan and John Baldwin, 1996.
Page Views: 1,400 total · 9/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jun 15, 2005 with updates from Carl Schaefer
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is the first pitch of a multi-pitch route. I did not climb the upper pitches. The first pitch is 10b; the upper pitches are harder (12 A0).

Follow a switchback past the left side of Vampire Rock and continue uphill (25' ?) until you can see bolts on the vegetated, lichen-covered wall and corner system on the right. This is the route.

P1. Climb the face and corners to an overhang. Make airy moves past the overhang and climb the tricky face above. Work right to a short finger crack and continue up to the anchor. (10b)

The rock is a little grungy, but solid, and there are lots of good moves on this pitch.

Protection

10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.  Some bolts are hard to spot from below (like the one above the roof) so if it looks runout above you, there's probably a bolt you haven't found yet; look left/right and around the corners

Photos

Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
Despite its looks, this is a pretty decent route. Left around the corner from The Bureau, it's hidden and obviously sees little traffic; it could use some cleaning. It was more challenging than I'd imagined. At the first roof, I got crunched underneath on poor feet. Above that, the holds are consistently slopey. Stem as much as possible. Aug 9, 2008
Clare Shemeta
  5.10b/c
Clare Shemeta  
  5.10b/c
At the "finger crack", if you proceed up the bolt line (the finger crack is a bit to the right of the bolt line) I think it's harder than 10b. Anybody else try it on the bolt line? There's a move with a left hand fin that's harder than the finger crack. I thought it was a fun, long (about 80 ft) line - 10 bolts, Rolofson book says 8.... Aug 11, 2008
slim

  5.10a
slim    
  5.10a
The climbing is decent, but it is quite dirty, and the bolting seemed all over the map. Many of the bolts weren't visible from below, so you pay attention or you might miss them. It seemed like the easy sections had bolts 3 feet apart, and the weird moves weren't protected as well. If this grade is at your limit, I'm not sure I would recommend it. Sep 19, 2012
Luke Clarke
Golden
 
Luke Clarke   Golden
 
The bolt line suggested to me to stay left and lieback a weirdly featured arete on the upper part of the pitch, but that seemed silly once I moved into the small open book with a fine finger crack. It's a worthy pitch even if the start feels brushy and grungy. Aug 20, 2017
Carl Schaefer
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Carl Schaefer   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Really fun! The easy climbing wanders back and forth across the bolt line, and since it doesn't see much traffic, it has an adventurous feel compared to grabbing one chalked hold after another on a popular sport route. The roof can be bypassed to the right, but it's way more fun to go through it on jugs to the left. Aug 10, 2018