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Routes in Vampire Rock

A.C.E. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Doll S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chupacabra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Climb-Eye-Knight S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack of Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Sunlight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heart of the Narrows S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Le Stat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey's Sister S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey's Uncle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pin Cushion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Politician, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
That's Weak S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trash It and Move On T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vampire, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wanker S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Bob Horan and John Baldwin, 1996.
Page Views: 1,280 total, 8/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jun 15, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is the first pitch of a multi-pitch route. I did not climb the upper pitches. The first pitch is 10b; the upper pitches are harder (12 A0).

Go to the left side of Vampire Rock and continue up about 100' until you can see bolts on the vegetated, lichen-covered wall and corner system on the right. This is the route.

P1. Climb the face and corners to an overhang. Make airy moves past the overhang and climb the tricky face above. Work right to a short finger crack and continue up to the anchor. (10b)

The rock is a little grungy, but there are lots of good moves on this pitch.

Protection

10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Luke Clarke
Golden
 
Luke Clarke   Golden
 
The bolt line suggested to me to stay left and lieback a weirdly featured arete on the upper part of the pitch, but that seemed silly once I moved into the small open book with a fine finger crack. It's a worthy pitch even if the start feels brushy and grungy. Aug 20, 2017
slim

  5.10a
slim    
  5.10a
The climbing is decent, but it is quite dirty, and the bolting seemed all over the map. Many of the bolts weren't visible from below, so you pay attention or you might miss them. It seemed like the easy sections had bolts 3 feet apart, and the weird moves weren't protected as well. If this grade is at your limit, I'm not sure I would recommend it. Sep 19, 2012
Clare Shemeta
  5.10b/c
Clare Shemeta  
  5.10b/c
At the "finger crack", if you proceed up the bolt line (the finger crack is a bit to the right of the bolt line) I think it's harder than 10b. Anybody else try it on the bolt line? There's a move with a left hand fin that's harder than the finger crack. I thought it was a fun, long (about 80 ft) line - 10 bolts, Rolofson book says 8.... Aug 11, 2008
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
Despite its looks, this is a pretty decent route. Left around the corner from The Bureau, it's hidden and obviously sees little traffic; it could use some cleaning. It was more challenging than I'd imagined. At the first roof, I got crunched underneath on poor feet. Above that, the holds are consistently slopey. Stem as much as possible. Aug 9, 2008