Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: John Baldwin & Steve Sangdahl, 2000
Page Views: 934 total · 8/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Sep 15, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is a short sport pitch that is essentially a variation of Monkey's Uncle on easier terrain to the right after 6-7 bolts. It doesn't seem terribly different in difficulty compared to Monkey's Uncle. Go up blocky terrain with a high step at the 2nd bolt on clean rock. At approximately the 6th or 7th bolt, you can traverse out right. If you go from the 6th bolt, it is hard to see the next bolt. The holds to the right are well-chalked. Go up to the 9th bolt and traverse left to the anchor.

Location

On Vampire Rock between Wanker & Transylverlina on blocky terrain. The starts for A.C.E., Monkey's Uncle, and Monkey's Sister are the same.

Protection

9 bolts & 3 bolt anchor with resident biners, chains, and glued biners.

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