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Routes in Vampire Rock

A.C.E. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Doll S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chupacabra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Climb-Eye-Knight S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack of Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Sunlight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heart of the Narrows S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Le Stat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey's Sister S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey's Uncle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pin Cushion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Politician, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
That's Weak S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trash It and Move On T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vampire, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wanker S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: John Baldwin & Steve Sangdahl, 2000
Page Views: 861 total, 9/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Sep 15, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a short sport pitch that is essentially a variation of Monkey's Uncle on easier terrain to the right after 6-7 bolts. It doesn't seem terribly different in difficulty compared to Monkey's Uncle. Go up blocky terrain with a high step at the 2nd bolt on clean rock. At approximately the 6th or 7th bolt, you can traverse out right. If you go from the 6th bolt, it is hard to see the next bolt. The holds to the right are well-chalked. Go up to the 9th bolt and traverse left to the anchor.

Location

On Vampire Rock between Wanker & Transylverlina on blocky terrain. The starts for A.C.E., Monkey's Uncle, and Monkey's Sister are the same.

Protection

9 bolts & 3 bolt anchor with resident biners, chains, and glued biners.

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