Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Clint Dillard, Anna Thomas, Rich Farnham, 7/4/16
Page Views: 1,203 total · 36/month
Shared By: Rich Farnham on Jul 4, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

...because no group of "blood-suckers" would be complete without a Politician.

This line ascends the clean face to the left of That's Weak, ending at the first pitch anchor of Chupacabra. It has good, thought-provoking moves on bomber rock. I wouldn't call the route "reachy", but short people will probably find the cruxes to be a little harder (10b?).

Location

It is on the main face of the Vampire, just left of That's Weak, but right of a large, broken dihedral.

Protection

10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

We climbed it on a 70m rope, and there was lots of rope left over. I think a 60 will be fine, but someone else will have to comment on that. Tie a knot in the end!

Photos

Steve Annecone
boulder
Steve Annecone   boulder
Nice route. A little easier than That's Weak but still probably 10a. A 60-meter definitely works fine. Aug 1, 2016
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Cool to see this finally get bolted. John and I top roped this when we put up That's Weak in 1996 and even pissed on it by installing a bolt at the corner but then moved on to other stuff. The upper pitch looks good too. Aug 3, 2016
Rich Farnham
  5.10a
Rich Farnham  
  5.10a
Steve - we wondered what was up with that bolt! Cool to know the back story. Were you just top-roping it from the That's Weak anchors? If so, you probably didn't get to do the last 20'. There's some fun moves getting to the anchors! Aug 3, 2016
Downgrading it for now as it is a bit dirty. Also there is a good sized (~5#) loose rock near the top...deceiving because it looks absolutely solid. Be careful belaying underneath this route until the conditions improve.

FYI - the rock is in about the last ten feet approaching from the right side of the bolt line. It is a small pillar in a small corner that looks attached at the base.

Added 7/16 - it was not so loose I could remove it, and there was a bit of a crowd at the base, so I didn't think it was the time to start kicking and punching. When I go back to work, TG, TB, and TJ, I will take care of it if still there. Aug 16, 2016
Steve Annecone
boulder
Steve Annecone   boulder
Yo Patrick, feel free to clean said loose rock when on routes like this. Better to pull it out and clean it up than to leave a time bomb for someone else. Aug 16, 2016