Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Clint Dillard, Anna Thomas, Rich Farnham, 7/4/16
Page Views: 1,825 total · 35/month
Shared By: Rich Farnham on Jul 4, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

...because no group of "blood-suckers" would be complete without a Politician.

This line ascends the clean face to the left of That's Weak, ending at the first pitch anchor of Chupacabra. It has good, thought-provoking moves on bomber rock. I wouldn't call the route "reachy", but short people will probably find the cruxes to be a little harder (10b?).

Location

It is on the main face of the Vampire, just left of That's Weak, but right of a large, broken dihedral.

Protection

10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

We climbed it on a 70m rope, and there was lots of rope left over. I think a 60 will be fine, but someone else will have to comment on that. Tie a knot in the end!

Photos