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Routes in Vampire Rock

A.C.E. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Doll S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chupacabra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Climb-Eye-Knight S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack of Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Sunlight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heart of the Narrows S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Le Stat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey's Sister S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey's Uncle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pin Cushion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Politician, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
That's Weak S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trash It and Move On T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vampire, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wanker S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mason Frichette and Paul Reid, 1977?
Page Views: 352 total, 2/month
Shared By: David A. Turner on Sep 29, 2002 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

A sweet, clandestine route. Start with That's Weak, and then move the belay over to the chain anchor on the right when you get to the ledge. You are now underneath Trash it and Move on, also an excellent route.

However, you as "trad climber" are headed up and right into the corner, capped by a roof. I have always traversed right first and then headed up to the roof. The pro is not great here, boldness is required, but the climbing is not too hard. It also looks possible to diagonal up and right from the belay, but this looks harder and dicier. Good judgment is required here.

Get up to the roof and plug some good gear in. The gear is great from here on out. Turn the roof on the left and start jamming up an increasingly steep crack into a small corner. Get to the top of the corner and appreciate the awesome foot holds that nature has provided for you. Figure out how to place gear in a crack just to your right, the one you can't really see that well, and then climb it, wishing that nature had provided footholds here as well. (Crux). Keep going to the chain anchor. Two rappels takes you to the ground.

Protection

Selection of pro from stoppers to cams up to blue Camalot, including TCUs or Aliens.

Photos

Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10+
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10+
Pretty great route. Runout to the corner is not trivial but not that difficult either. Like Lisa said, save a #0.4 or 0.5 Camalot for the crux. The crux is over quickly, and 5.11- is a generous grade for this route. 5.10c would be more appropriate. Aug 30, 2017
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
  5.11a
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
  5.11a
Save a #0.5 Camalot to place overhead at the crux. It's initially hard to see, because it's so high and around the corner, but it's bomber. Great pitch. Aug 7, 2016
slim

  5.11c
slim    
  5.11c
Nice job, Brett. I thought that straight up at the top felt tough and definitely insecure. Spent a lot of time looking, groping, and clenching my teeth. Sep 1, 2008
The other day I led the thrilling left finish (that Joe mentioned above), thinking that was the normal route. It was probably mid-5.11 and kind of spicy, but high quality. Aug 28, 2008
aPcW  
FA: Mason Frichette and Paul Reid, 1977. Jul 21, 2007
Joe Collins  
 
Great pitch!Nearly 3 stars. Routefinding at the crux is challenging. My belayer, who had done the route before, remembered going left at the crux along the continuation of the crack. This variation looks like it takes gear at first, but then turns into scarey looking slab climbing. When I got up there, traversing into the right crack (as described above) seemed the more logical, and safer, way to go. So after much confusion and hesitation I went that way. The crux takes very good stoppers as well as the #1 sized cam. Jul 14, 2004
This is an excellant pitch!!! Save the #1 Friend for the crux. I believe Dan Hare was with Mason F. on the F.A. Oct 2, 2002
I diagonaled directly to the roof, the option you described. I don't know if it's harder than stepping right and going straight up, but it was fairly run-out. In the end, we felt it was sort of silly, though -- better to just follow the easiest ground to the roof, where the real action starts. Great climb, all in all, with the crux near the top, where it should be. Oct 1, 2002