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Routes in Vampire Rock

A.C.E. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Doll S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chupacabra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Climb-Eye-Knight S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack of Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Sunlight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heart of the Narrows S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Le Stat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey's Sister S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey's Uncle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pin Cushion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Politician, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
That's Weak S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trash It and Move On T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vampire, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wanker S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Dan Levison & Bob Lagier
Page Views: 185 total, 1/month
Shared By: Dan Levison on Jun 30, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

23 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details


Pincushion starts 30 feet right of That's Weak. Ascend the short face with a distinct crux move just after the third bolt. The anchor is after the face above the second ledge. This pitch is a good warm-up and/or approach pitch for the current and future headwall routes above.


4 bolts; 2 bolt anchor.



Really interesting, albeit short pitch. I thought there were 2 definite cruxes, getting past the 2nd bolt and getting past the 3rd bolt. For the crux at the 2nd bolt being tall seemed pretty advantageous. On the flip side, being tall at the 3rd bolt sucked. By the time I rocked over onto the left foot, I already had the shitty, slippery (yet somehow sharp) crimp at my shoulder and didn't have much range to pull it down. Instead, I ended up using a right hand, flake gaston (above the hold that you spend half of the day hanging out and dunking your hand into your chalkbag), and left hand manteling.

The fun doesn't stop there though, as the holds are still kind of weird and insecure, and you have to make a few moves to clip the next bolt. For a bolted 11a in Boulder Canyon, this one felt pretty legit. Sep 1, 2008
SirVato   Boulder
I like the bolt spacing. And I am of shorter stature so, the first clip was a bit sporty. Also seeing how far the next bolt was I opted to clip a lone 'biner to the first bolt to save a foot or drop should I blow any of the moves above. I'm also going to have to go with no more than 11b. I don't usually onsight 11c and definitely not 11d!!
The pro is adequate but that's it!! No more no less, I thought the movement was great and, although short, it was a pretty exciting pitch!! Jul 10, 2008
Aeon Aki

Aeon Aki    
The sportiest way to clip the first bolt is with a stick. Jun 30, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Good route, maybe middle 5.11 in the right conditions. However... this climb can get downright slick in poor weather- I got totally shut down [slipping] on and off of the crux with raw skin and humidity after having just done a neighboring 5.12 with much less effort.The first clip is sporty to get to, especially for the shorter folks. Jun 24, 2005
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
Hi Ray,

I bolted Pincushion and the project above. I agree, Pincushion is probably 2/3 letter grades harder than 11a, but it seems every new route in the canyon gets massively down-graded; therefore, we decided to start on the low-end of the scale. I disagree, I think the protection is adequate, and it doesn't detract from the quality of the pitch. BOTH minimal bolt placements AND pitch quality were equally addressed. The project above isn't lavishly over-bolted - it simply appears that way because the first couple bolts are close so the climber doesn't hit the ledge and/or belayer if he/she falls when climbing directly above the belay. Thanks, BTW send me an e-mail, let's get out - we haven't climbed together in about 10 years. Take Care,

Dan Jul 13, 2003
I apologize for the lack of clarity in my earlier posting. I thought that the sarcastic tone was sufficiently established in the first sentence to carry over to the second.

So I will be clear. I think that Pincushion is noticibly harder than 11a, and believe that the bolt placements were made with an eye toward minimizing the bolt count, not toward making a good 5.11 route. This might be more understandable, but still quite ironic, in the context of this being an approach pitch to a lavishly bolted project above. Jul 13, 2003
The grade is about right - if you include a hearty tug on the second and third quick draws, that is. A breath of fresh air for those who are sick and tired of overbolting or soft grading. Jul 12, 2003
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
Thanks Bob! The second pitch (in progress) is even better! Jul 6, 2003
Bob, we used klettershoes, so yes, definitely edging shoes work well. Jul 1, 2003