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Routes in Vampire Rock

A.C.E. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Doll S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chupacabra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Climb-Eye-Knight S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack of Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Sunlight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heart of the Narrows S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Le Stat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey's Sister S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey's Uncle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pin Cushion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Politician, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
That's Weak S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trash It and Move On T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vampire, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wanker S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: S. Sangdahl, D. Salisbury, J. Baldwin
Page Views: 4,731 total, 26/month
Shared By: David A. Turner on Sep 29, 2002 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


60 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a great route on super stone. Do That's Weak to get up to a big ledge with a chain anchor. Belay here or just keep going.

The angle freshens a bit, and the rock is a beautiful gold color through here, with some interesting holds for granite. Climb into an alcove on the left for a rest. Then tackle the overhanging headwall above (crux). Lower back to the ledge, and rap from the chain anchors to the ground. With a 70 meter rope, you can climb That's Weak and TG, TB, &TJ in one pitch and lower off, but put a knot in the end of the rope!!

Protection

About 9 bolts with a two bolt chain anchor. Bring a bunch more draws if you combine it with That's Weak for one long ultra pitch.

Photos

Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Put an extra long draw or sling on the 4th bolt of That's Weak if linking pitches to alleviate rope drag. Fantastic route, one of the true gems in BoCan.... Aug 27, 2017
Rule #1. Sorry. Oct 17, 2013
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.12a
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
  5.12a
I agree, one of the best at the grade. Powerful and sustained crux.
Technique pays huge dividends here as well as spotting a key rest. This would be a stout onsight. That's theory, of course. Aug 14, 2013
Peter J. Beyel
Glenwood Springs
  5.12a
Peter J. Beyel   Glenwood Springs
  5.12a
Phenomenal rock climb. Definitely worth doing the 10a into this pitch for the full value 70m rope stretcher. Jul 17, 2013
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Very well bolted and safe. I think it deserves another star in the guidebook though. Combining it with That's Weak (fun thought provoking 10a) makes for an incredibly long pitch where the climbing gets progressively harder on the upper half. Great route! Tie a knot in the end of your rope.... Aug 31, 2011
ac
 
ac  
 
One of the best 12a's in the Canyon... climbs kind of like limestone.3 stars when combined with That's Weak. Just wish the meat were longer. A 60m rope will just get you back to the ground with a little shenanigans... definitely keep a knot in the end though. Jun 23, 2005
Alan Higham  
 
Great pitch. Easy to mess up the onsight (as I did!). With the beta it's quite a bit easier. Very well bolted apart from the runout section off the belay. Jun 19, 2005
one can also lead this from the ground by climbing "thats weak" and going directly into "the good,the bad,and the jacked". makes for a nice long pitch(2 ropes to get off,or 2 rappells)f.a. s.sangdahl,d.salisbury,j.baldwin Oct 2, 2002