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Routes in Vampire Rock

A.C.E. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Doll S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chupacabra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Climb-Eye-Knight S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack of Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Sunlight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heart of the Narrows S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Le Stat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey's Sister S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey's Uncle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pin Cushion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Politician, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
That's Weak S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trash It and Move On T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vampire, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wanker S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, TR
FA: Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin, 1996
Page Views: 2,788 total, 14/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


111 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The route is the first set of bolts you come to on the face (not the small cave area on the right side), approaching from the west, about 10 feet right of a large mossy crack running up and left. Follow the bolts up; the crux is after the second bolt.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A good beginner lead.
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Greg, thanks for replacing those bolts. I don't seem to recall placing a Kong hanger, so maybe it was put on later or.... Anyway, thanks for your efforts replacing the hardware in Boulder Canyon and elsewhere. I owe you a beer or 2. Cheers. Aug 26, 2017
Greg Barnes  
 
Jeremy Lubkin and I replaced all bolts on That's Weak today. The impetus for replacing was the left hanger at the anchor, which was a Kong aluminum hanger, like the two that broke in a single incident at Index in 2009. I was concerned someone might get to the anchor, clip into that bolt, then go off belay before clipping the second bolt (a fair number of folks do that...especially Europeans) or continue to an upper pitch and have an anchor hanger break in a multi-pitch situation (yikes!).

We replaced all bolts in the original holes, and the new bolts are 1/2 x 2.75" stainless Power-Bolts. The anchor has stainless links to the new style Climbtech mussy hooks (wire gate, hardened, anodized dull green).

The old bolts were in good shape considering the 21 years they've been there - they all looked pretty good except for the scary aluminum hanger. Rust wasn't too bad.

Hardware was provided by the ASCA, please consider a tax-deductible donation at safeclimbing.org Aug 25, 2017
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
Thought this was a very nice long sport route with several interesting moves. If you do veer to the obvious looking easier stuff to your right, of course that lessens the grade. Your choice! May 8, 2011
kevinnlong
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
kevinnlong   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Agreed, if one follows the bolt line directly, as paralleling the bolt line on the right, this route is harder than 10a, perhaps 5.10 or 5.10c. Oct 19, 2008
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
 
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
 
If you follow the bolt line (rather than climb right, then hand traverse back) I think this line is legit 5.10 and features interesting and not at all awkward climbing.
It is only marred by the line of easier holds off to the right that sucker you in and make for a much more unfulfilling experience. Jun 15, 2008
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10a
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10a
Fun route. Soft for 10a, but sustained at 5.9. Only route that I have done on Vampire, but looked like it was the cleanest of the base routes. Generous clipping stances.

Would be good approach pitch for upper stuff.

No move harder than 9. Jul 21, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Solid stone, well protected, with no move harder than 5.9. Jul 8, 2002
Definitely a much better start to 'The Vampire' or 'Crack of Desperation' than the 5.7 trad start (very loose rock). Not a 3-star route either. Mostly awkward. May 31, 2002
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
I don't think that this route deserves the stars, it's mostly just awkward without being interesting. Still, it looks like a much better start for Vampire than the official first pitch. Oct 24, 2001
A pretty good route, straight forward 10a. Some good climbs start from the top of this pitch. Refer to Rossiter's book. There is a great, sequential 12a (seemed easier than 12a) straight up from the belay and a strenuous 11c to the right. Jun 25, 2001