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Routes in Vampire Rock

A.C.E. S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Blood Doll S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chupacabra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Climb-Eye-Knight S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack of Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Sunlight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heart of the Narrows S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Le Stat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey's Sister S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey's Uncle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pin Cushion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Politician, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
That's Weak S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trash It and Move On T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vampire, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Wanker S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Steve Sangdahl & John Baldwin 1999
Page Views: 371 total · 3/month
Shared By: Aeon Aki on Jun 9, 2008 with updates from Carl Schaefer
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

The Bureau climbs the line of bolts left of Wanker. It is identified by the chain link hanging from the 3rd bolt.

Climb up the pillar to the first bolt and work your way into a sloping rail. A wild dyno gets you off of the sloper, but the fun doesn't stop as more 5.11 climbing guards the anchors. Lower from the first set of anchors or continue on to harder climbing. More info coming....

Protection

10 draws is plenty.

Photos

Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
Great route. Shady until late afternoon, and somewhat protected by rain from a roof above. I don't really dyno at the crux; I do more of a lieback off the terrible right sloper. It's important to lean left for the sloper to be effective. I then let go of the left undercling and statically--but quickly--get the jug rail above. The route is not long but I find it pumpy. This and Wanker P1 are my favorite pitches at Vampire. I'm not sure whence the name derives. Aug 28, 2009
Christian Mason
Westminster CO
  5.11d
Christian Mason   Westminster CO
  5.11d
Stop reading if you don't want beta:

The bad sloper at the first overlap can be avoided all together. Before pulling the overlap work the feet as far right as possible. Hands on the good undercling.

Move the left hand up to the high side pull (just right of the bolt) while leaning way right.

Work the feet up.

Right hand to slightly slopey crimp (just above and right of the sidepull the left hand is on).

From here, it's one move up to better holds.

Cell phone video of crux sequence:
youtube.com/watch?v=9JeCnVq… Sep 21, 2015

More About The Bureau (Pitch 1)

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