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Routes in Vampire Rock

A.C.E. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Doll S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chupacabra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Climb-Eye-Knight S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack of Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Sunlight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heart of the Narrows S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Le Stat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey's Sister S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey's Uncle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pin Cushion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Politician, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
That's Weak S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trash It and Move On T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vampire, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wanker S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Steve Sangdahl & John Baldwin 1999
Page Views: 430 total · 3/month
Shared By: Aeon Aki on Jun 9, 2008 with updates from Carl Schaefer
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

The Bureau climbs the line of bolts left of Wanker. It is identified by the chain link hanging from the 2nd bolt.

Climb up the pillar to the first bolt and work your way into a sloping rail. A wild dyno gets you off of the sloper, but the fun doesn't stop as more 5.11 climbing guards the anchors. Lower from the first set of anchors or continue on to harder climbing. More info coming....

Protection

Five bolts to a two-bolt anchor with rap rings

Photos

Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
Great route. Shady until late afternoon, and somewhat protected by rain from a roof above. I don't really dyno at the crux; I do more of a lieback off the terrible right sloper. It's important to lean left for the sloper to be effective. I then let go of the left undercling and statically--but quickly--get the jug rail above. The route is not long but I find it pumpy. This and Wanker P1 are my favorite pitches at Vampire. I'm not sure whence the name derives. Aug 28, 2009
Christian Mason
Westminster CO
  5.11d
Christian Mason   Westminster CO
  5.11d
Stop reading if you don't want beta:

The bad sloper at the first overlap can be avoided all together. Before pulling the overlap work the feet as far right as possible. Hands on the good undercling.

Move the left hand up to the high side pull (just right of the bolt) while leaning way right.

Work the feet up.

Right hand to slightly slopey crimp (just above and right of the sidepull the left hand is on).

From here, it's one move up to better holds.

Cell phone video of crux sequence:
youtube.com/watch?v=9JeCnVq… Sep 21, 2015
Mark Rolofson
  5.11d
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11d
Doing the crux technical crux left of the 2nd bolt this climb feels like .12a. The first time I climbed this route was in November 1999, & I did it this way. I repeated the climb a year or two later but don't remember ever returning. I much preferred "Wanker".

I did just recently returned to this climb 17 years later & was pleased to find the sequence of moves just right of the 2nd bolt - more moves but easier & more pleasant. It is not over once you're through this crux. The redpoint crux is above the 4th bolt. The moves at at 2nd bolt are still the technical crux, but they're not way harder than the climbing past 3rd & 4th bolts. Sep 25, 2018

More About The Bureau (Pitch 1)

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