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The Bureau (Pitch 1)
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.9 from 67
votes
Routes in Vampire Rock
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A.C.E. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blood Doll S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Chupacabra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Climb-Eye-Knight S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crack of Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fear of Sunlight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Heart of the Narrows S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Le Stat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Monkey's Sister S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Monkey's Uncle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Old Scraggs and His Mud Bags S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pin Cushion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Politician, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Red Sonja T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stage Fright T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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That's Weak S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Transylverlina S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Trash It and Move On T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vampire, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wanker S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Wanker (upper) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 39.997, -105.41387 |
| FA: | Steve Sangdahl & John Baldwin 1999 |
| Page Views: | 2,056 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Aeon Aki on Jun 9, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closures for 2026 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, East Blob, Security Risk - open. Eagle Rock, Vampire, Black Widow Slab - closed.
Details
Per *Items added 12/30 Closet clean out. Apparel, approach shoe's, (BD, prana, scarpa, REI): Blob, Bitty, and Security Risk have been reopened on 4/21/26.
The USFS closed Blob, E Blob, Security, Bitty, Vampire, and Black Widow through 7/31/26.
5/19/25 Eagle Rock opened. 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened.
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptors.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual closures in Boulder Canyon as of 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures: Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers re: giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20: following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec….
The USFS closed Blob, E Blob, Security, Bitty, Vampire, and Black Widow through 7/31/26.
5/19/25 Eagle Rock opened. 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened.
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptors.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual closures in Boulder Canyon as of 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures: Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers re: giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20: following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec….
Access Issue: USFS Enacts Closure for peregrine falcon nesting through 7/31/26
Details
Per Boulder Climbing Community: Vampire Rock is currently CLOSED by the USFS due to nesting peregrine falcons! The closure is in effect through 7/31/26. Climbing at closed crags carries a hefty fine and can affect general access to the crag!
fs.usda.gov/r02/arp/alerts/….
A new peregrine falcon nest was confirmed on Vampire Rock in Boulder Canyon, and the US Forest Service officially enacted closures of Vampire Rock and Black Widow Slab yesterday (6/24/2025).
Aaron Friedland
Operations Coordinator & Volunteer Manager
1206 Euclid Ave, Suite 2
Boulder, CO 80302 boulderclimbers.org
fs.usda.gov/r02/arp/alerts/….
A new peregrine falcon nest was confirmed on Vampire Rock in Boulder Canyon, and the US Forest Service officially enacted closures of Vampire Rock and Black Widow Slab yesterday (6/24/2025).
Aaron Friedland
Operations Coordinator & Volunteer Manager
1206 Euclid Ave, Suite 2
Boulder, CO 80302 boulderclimbers.org
Description
The Bureau climbs the line of bolts left of Wanker. It is identified by the chain link hanging from the 2nd bolt.
Climb up the pillar to the first bolt and work your way into a sloping rail. A wild dyno gets you off of the sloper, but the fun doesn't stop as more 5.11 climbing guards the anchors. Lower from the first set of anchors or continue on to harder climbing. More info coming....
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