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Routes in Vampire Rock

A.C.E. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Doll S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chupacabra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Climb-Eye-Knight S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack of Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Sunlight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heart of the Narrows S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Le Stat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey's Sister S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey's Uncle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pin Cushion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Politician, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
That's Weak S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trash It and Move On T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vampire, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wanker S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Clint Dillard and Rich Farnham
Page Views: 1,594 total, 14/month
Shared By: Rich Farnham on Jul 16, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

UPDATE 7/2016: the main reason to do this route is the 2nd pitch finger crack through the bulge. The first pitch is mostly dirty and unremarkable until the last 20', and now there is a good way to avoid the choss and climb the good stuff. The face climbing to the right of the first pitch turned out to be a good bolted climb: The Politician. In the course of creating that route, we removed the rusting fixed pins and bolted the upper section of the first pitch. Combining The Politician into the 2nd pitch of Chupacabra makes it worth 3 stars IMHO.

Original description: the route cris-crosses with Vampire at several points. There is some loose rock on this route but nothing I think will come off any time soon. Just be careful what you grab and what you put pro behind. We trundled all of the loose stuff that we could get to move, so it should be fine--but this is more of an adventure climb.

P1 (10a). Follow thin cracks up blocky terrain a few feet right of the large, dirty corner. The upper third of this pitch has nice moves along a thin seam in good rock. We left 3 fixed knifeblades for pro in this section (UPDATE 7/2016: now bolted). Look for a 2 bolt anchor to the left after the knifeblade section. This anchor is about 10 feet below where Vampire crosses in from the right.

P2 (10+/11-?). Climb up and right, into the left-facing corner between "Vampire (P2)" and "The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked". The corner leans right for about 20 feet and climbs a lot more interesting than it looks from below. Enjoy the jug rest below the roof (often heavily chalked from people on Good, Bad,...), and then punch it through the bulge above on great finger locks. This crack leads you to the slab that is at the end of P2 of the Vampire. Belay as for P2 of the Vampire.

Several options exist from here. It is possible to climb right from this belay and get to the chains on "Stage Fright" or "Trash It...". Or you can follow the Vampire to the left and other rappel options along that route.

Location

Start about 20 feet left of That's Weak, and about 5 feet right of a large gully.

Descent: the first anchor is equipped for rappelling. If you do the second pitch (recommended!), use one of the descent options mentioned above.

Protection

We didn't place anything larger than a #2 Camalot, but depending on what you want to finish on, I would suggest a standard rack to at least a #3. The gear is mostly stoppers and small cams, so you might double on the Aliens up to a red.

P2 is heavy on the #0.5 Camalot/red Alien size. I used 3 on the pitch (but I sewed it up) and 1 more in the anchor. You could probably find other gear, but these were the most obvious and didn't use up good holds.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Pretty good. Pitches can be linked with good sling work if you don't sling the anchor and go right after clipping the top bolt with a 2' sling. The rope line is direct that way. Makes a maybe 150' pitch or so.

2 cruxes:

1) The poorly protected move to the right on P2 in the crumbly rock with bad gear and a questionable flake is probably 5.9+... if your arms are long enough to span it on the best holds. If not, then harder on worse rock and holds.
2) The roof, which is somewhere in the 5.10 range depending on finger size. My thin fingers were not the best answer. My partner told me I also missed a "bucket" hold (incut), and I just kept climbing. Yes, a red Alien would have been nice there. I ran it out a little instead of getting pumped trying to put a Camalot Jr. in (which is what I had). The Aliens/FCUs/etc. are going to be better, since the crack is not a nice parallel crack - they'll fit in there. There are a few insecure moves after the roof that might have you pausing if you just ran it out 15'..., but with narrow cams or medium offsets that should not be an issue. Jul 15, 2017
Nice pitch.

Kinda exciting from the new sport climb anchor to the crux roof. The crack is grainy and exfoliating with a large flake that is not very solid. Once to the crux roof, the gear becomes great. Good call on bringing extra big fingers gear.

There was no way I was downclimbing to the good, bad, and jacked anchor. I left a bomber #9 stopper and biner and lowered to that anchor. It would be nice if it stayed there for an easy descent. I assume an anchor is out of the question because of the proximity to the Vampire, an old established route, but it would make repeating this route more enjoyable.

10+, 11- seems about right. Jun 3, 2017
Rich Farnham  
 
Ken: "Can the ratings of each pitch be added to the description? Thanks."

Done. Sep 13, 2016
Ken Leiden
Boulder, CO
Ken Leiden   Boulder, CO
Can the ratings of each pitch be added to the description? Thanks. Sep 9, 2016
I won't rate it, because I didn't get it clean, but I think this is harder than 5.10+. Big fingers would help. Pretty cool short pitch. Jul 29, 2016