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Routes in Vampire Rock

A.C.E. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Doll S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chupacabra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Climb-Eye-Knight S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack of Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Sunlight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heart of the Narrows S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Le Stat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey's Sister S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey's Uncle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pin Cushion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Politician, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
That's Weak S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trash It and Move On T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vampire, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wanker S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: S. Sangdahl, J. Baldwin, 2000
Page Views: 154 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 23, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

To the far left of the bottom end of Vampire Rock, one can find Monkey's Uncle. This distinctive route lies just left and down from a trashy-looking, left-facing corner, with a big boulder behind the base of it. It goes up past a series of roofs on large holds.

A.C.E. climbs up the first 20 feet of Monkey's Uncle, passing 3 bolts near the "pseudo arete" and then strikes out diagonally left (a few slings instead of draws here) to a larger roof, which requires some strength and coordination to pull through. No hidden holds, as chalk reveals them all, but the crux movement was not immediately obvious. Clip that next bolt from nice and high, not from on the crux crimper. After pulling so sharply left for a crux, the route continues sharply right to go to the anchor's on Monkey's Uncle, passing several more bolts and reaching the anchors. Lower off 70' or so to the ground.

This climb would be a devil to clean on rappel or lowering, and hard on the rope besides- better to have a second clean it or take another lap. Also, I thought that the large band of re-inforced holds up top on the right-hand traverse (obvious and unattractive brown glue) detracted from my enjoyment of the climb. Looking back, I am not entirely sure why these were not cleaned instead, as they might have gone into the creek, but not onto the road.

Protection

12 bolts and chain anchor- this route wanders and with a few slings you can eliminate the drag almost entirely. Take a dozen draws and one each 1' and 2' runner.

Photos

I tried cleaning this on the lower today, and it worked absolutely fine, so don't let Tony's comment deter you. One trick to rope drag reduction on this pitch is to back clean the first draw after the final overlap. Aug 15, 2006