Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: BL & Dan Levison
Page Views: 269 total · 1/month
Shared By: BL on Jul 11, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

Start at the anchors for Pincushion, and head up through 9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Beware of questionable rock between bolts 4 & 5. The exposed crux moves are between bolts 7 and 9.

The name "Blood Doll" is taken from the Anne Rice vampire books and is appropriate since we witnessed a bloody bike accident after sending the route.

Protection

9 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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Funny to hear that the name is related to the bike accident. I climbed it about an hour after the crash, in one pitch from the ground (with a 60 meter you can get lowered back to the top of Pincushion, although the belayer needs to be mighty careful). It had a whole buch of quickdraws on it and a red string on the first bolt (which is always good motivation...). The climbing up top is quite fun, delicate and not very obvious. Sep 20, 2004
BL
  5.12a
BL  
  5.12a
AC, are you trying to imply that you did the first ascent? You did not, my anonymous friend.

First off, I redpointed the route at least a day (or days?) before Dan sent it, and we leave the tag on projects until we have both redpointed it.

Second, what the hell are you doing climbing on someone's project that has a red tag on it?

Cheers,

BobL Sep 20, 2004
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
I lowered the crux bolt (last bolt) about a foot so it is now possible to clip before starting the deceptive crux moves. Be careful when lowering off this pitch (when linking this with Pincushion) as a 60 M rope will just make it to the Pincushion anchors. Jul 1, 2008