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Routes in Vampire Rock

A.C.E. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Doll S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chupacabra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Climb-Eye-Knight S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack of Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Sunlight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heart of the Narrows S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Le Stat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey's Sister S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey's Uncle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pin Cushion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Politician, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
That's Weak S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trash It and Move On T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vampire, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wanker S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: BL & Dan Levison
Page Views: 177 total, 1/month
Shared By: BL on Jul 11, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Start at the anchors for Pincushion, and head up through 9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Beware of questionable rock between bolts 4 & 5. The exposed crux moves are between bolts 7 and 9.

The name "Blood Doll" is taken from the Anne Rice vampire books and is appropriate since we witnessed a bloody bike accident after sending the route.

Protection

9 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
I lowered the crux bolt (last bolt) about a foot so it is now possible to clip before starting the deceptive crux moves. Be careful when lowering off this pitch (when linking this with Pincushion) as a 60 M rope will just make it to the Pincushion anchors. Jul 1, 2008
BL
 
BL  
 
AC, are you trying to imply that you did the first ascent? You did not, my anonymous friend.

First off, I redpointed the route at least a day (or days?) before Dan sent it, and we leave the tag on projects until we have both redpointed it.

Second, what the hell are you doing climbing on someone's project that has a red tag on it?

Cheers,

BobL Sep 20, 2004
Funny to hear that the name is related to the bike accident. I climbed it about an hour after the crash, in one pitch from the ground (with a 60 meter you can get lowered back to the top of Pincushion, although the belayer needs to be mighty careful). It had a whole buch of quickdraws on it and a red string on the first bolt (which is always good motivation...). The climbing up top is quite fun, delicate and not very obvious. Sep 20, 2004