Type: Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches
GPS: 41.145, -74.1653
FA: Frank Bochanski & Zach Hyer
Page Views: 575 total · 11/month
Shared By: Frank Black on Sep 14, 2021
Admins: Morgan Patterson, SMarsh

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A traverse of the Tower Wall, recommended as two pitches for rope drag and protecting the follower.

P1 5.9 PG13: At an (often wet) obtuse corner below some small cracks, step up to a bread loaf pinch and move right on slabby feet and sidepulls.  Step up (crux) to a small crack/pocket, make a critical placement, then go right around the corner.  Up through a slightly overhung section on good holds to a ledge, then up again to belay at a large horizontal crack.  80'

P2 5.8 G: Move right, hug the torpedo, then step down and follow the crack around the corner.  Use positive holds at the top of the dihedral to pull the roof, then step right and finish up past several horizontal cracks on easier ground to the top.  60'

For an easier variation, start on Back to the Gym or Back to the Wall, join P1 and belay as above, and for P2 continue to traverse into and finish on The Red Knob, keeps the difficulty at about 5.7.

Location Suggest change

Starts fifteen feet left of the shark's tooth.

Protection Suggest change

Trad: Standard rack, small/medium tricams, plenty of alpine draws/slings.

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