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No Rest for the Wicked
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3 from 23
votes
Routes in 6. The Tower Wall
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Any Which Way But Down/Ex-traction T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Arrowhead T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Back to the Gym T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Back to the Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bleed Between the Lines T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Crefeld Crank TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dead Tree Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ex-traction Slab TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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In & Out T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Johnson Route T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Manticore Dihedral T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Manticore Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Manticore Upper Arete T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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No Rest for the Wicked T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ogre Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rachel's Crack T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Red Knob, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rock Romancer TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rossinator, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tower Wall Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Unrest of the Witches TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Jon Crefeld 2009 |
| Page Views: | 2,394 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Byron Igoe on Nov 6, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
To the left of the obvious corner (Rachel's Crack). Start up the right edge of the shark's tooth. Step onto the main face and follow thin crack up and right-ward. Straight up to a short ledge, then into an open book and final overhang.
Location
Once you can see Tower Wall from the trail, continue ESE to the next tower and hike up toward the crag. At the right side of detached flake about 15 feet high, 20-30 feet left of Rachel's Crack.
41.1449833, -74.1653405
41.1449833, -74.1653405
Protection
TR: Good trees for a top-rope anchor can be reached by hiking up. Long static lines will be needed between the trees and the edge. There is also a bolted anchor with quick links just over the cliff edge.
Leading: with a standard trad rack, an anchor can be constructed with multiple pieces about 20 feet above the top edge of the cliff. Be sure to extend the anchor so the rope doesn't run over rock edges.
Some leaders might feel that the transition in the upper part, from the shallow open book to the V-notch is not well protected.
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