Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 6. The Tower Wall

Any Which Way But Down/Ex-traction T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Arrowhead TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Back to the Gym T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Back to the Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Crefeld Crank TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Tree Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ex-traction Slab TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In & Out T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Johnson Route T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Manticore Dihedral T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Manticore Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Manticore Upper Arete T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
No Rest for the Wicked T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ogre Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rachel's Crack T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Red Knob, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Romancer TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rossinator, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tower Wall Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Unrest of the Witches TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: Jon Crefeld 2009
Page Views: 817 total, 17/month
Shared By: Byron Igoe on Nov 6, 2013 with updates
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

To the left of the obvious corner (Rachel's Crack). Start up the right edge of the shark's tooth. Step onto the main face and follow thin crack up and right-ward. Straight up to a short ledge, then into an open book and final overhang.

Location

Once you can see Tower Wall from the trail, continue ESE to the next tower and hike up toward the crag. At the right side of detached flake about 15 feet high, 20-30 feet left of Rachel's Crack.
41.1449833, -74.1653405

Protection

Good trees for a top-rope anchor can be reached by hiking up. Long static lines will be needed between the trees and the edge.

Photos

Adam Gellman
Jersey City/Burlington
Adam Gellman   Jersey City/Burlington
Be very careful setting up a top rope. Ropes very easily get stuck in cracks on the route and ledges make it difficult to throw the rope down. Jun 7, 2015
kenr
 
kenr  
 
2011 Guidebook start is up the right side of the shark's tooth, then step onto the main face and follow thin crack up and right-ward. Then up to a short ledge, then into an open book and final overhang - (then 15 feet more up sloping rock to the top).

Lots of interesting moves, with two strenuous crux sequences. The obvious notch (almost) at the top requires careful looking and a bit of tricky maneuvering to keep the difficulty from going way above 5.9+ (if all else fails, the "Unrest of the Witches" finish is not as hard).

Top-Rope did not require directionals, but very difficult to set up TR to achieve all of: avoid rope drag, monitor possible abrasion on anchor materials, and belay from the bottom -- to me seemed simplest and quickest to use a static line over 100 feet and some class 4 down-climbing to reach the top of the steeper sections. Or might want to plan on belaying from the top, to avoid rope drag and abrasion of climbing rope or static line.

First crux move is likely much harder for climbers much less than 5ft6inch tall with normal reach. Jun 6, 2014
jon crefeld  
 
Terrific route that can be creatively protected all along, and then you're just above your gear for the big pull at the end. Thoughtful with solid rock. Apr 8, 2014