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Routes in 6. The Tower Wall
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Any Which Way But Down/Ex-traction T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Arrowhead T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Back to the Gym T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Back to the Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bleed Between the Lines T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Crefeld Crank TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dead Tree Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ex-traction Slab TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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In & Out T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Johnson Route T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Manticore Dihedral T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Manticore Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Manticore Upper Arete T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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No Rest for the Wicked T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ogre Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rachel's Crack T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Red Knob, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rock Romancer TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rossinator, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tower Wall Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Unrest of the Witches TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | Ken + Sharon Roberts 2014 |
| Page Views: | 2,463 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Sep 10, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
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Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Variety of interesting moves (especially stemming) at difficulty less than most other routes on the Tower Wall.
Straight up the open book, past the obvious dead tree stump. Grabbing the dead tree stump is on (though it's interesting to skirt around its left side without touching it). Continue up to the top of the open book / dihedral. Use a small live tree to negotiate the left end of the roof. (Variation: Pull the roof, strenuous on positive holds: 5.8+). Finish with 20-25 feet less steep to the top.
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2014. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Straight up the open book, past the obvious dead tree stump. Grabbing the dead tree stump is on (though it's interesting to skirt around its left side without touching it). Continue up to the top of the open book / dihedral. Use a small live tree to negotiate the left end of the roof. (Variation: Pull the roof, strenuous on positive holds: 5.8+). Finish with 20-25 feet less steep to the top.
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2014. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Location
Start at the obvious open book or dihedral about 22 feet right from Rachel's Crack, just Right behind the arete of the Ogre. The initial face of the Red Knob route is the right side of the dihedral. See on Overview of routes Photo.
About 25 feet up in the open book is a nine-inch-wide tree stump sticking out three feet.
About 25 feet up in the open book is a nine-inch-wide tree stump sticking out three feet.
Protection
Harder moves fairly well protected. Typical trad protection spacing for other sections. No bolts or pitons. Mid- and mid-small cams useful for the crux (and other sections), perhaps a couple stopper placements. Slings for the tree stump. Lower section is a bit tricky: would require very large wide pieces to place in the crack itself, but mid-size stuff can be used off to the side in the right wall.
Top Rope: Straightforward to set up as a top-rope with a static line not more than 50 feet.
As of 11/19/21 there are now bolted anchors
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