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Routes in 6. The Tower Wall

Any Which Way But Down/Ex-traction T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Arrowhead TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Back to the Gym T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Back to the Wall T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Crefeld Crank TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Tree Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ex-traction Slab TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In & Out T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Johnson Route T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Manticore Dihedral T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Manticore Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Manticore Upper Arete T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
No Rest for the Wicked T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ogre Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rachel's Crack T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Red Knob, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Romancer TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rossinator, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tower Wall Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Unrest of the Witches TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 85 ft
FA: Ken + Sharon Roberts 2014
Page Views: 850 total, 21/month
Shared By: kenr on Sep 10, 2014
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Variety of interesting moves (especially stemming) at difficulty less than most other routes on the Tower Wall.

Straight up the open book, past the obvious dead tree stump. Grabbing the dead tree stump is on (though it's interesting to skirt around its left side without touching it). Continue up to the top of the open book / dihedral. Use a small live tree to negotiate the left end of the roof. (Variation: Pull the roof, strenuous on positive holds: 5.8+). Finish with 20-25 feet less steep to the top.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2014. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

Start at the obvious open book or dihedral about 22 feet right from Rachel's Crack, just Right behind the arete of the Ogre. The initial face of the Red Knob route is the right side of the dihedral. See on Overview of routes Photo.
About 25 feet up in the open book is a nine-inch-wide tree stump sticking out three feet.

Protection

Harder moves fairly well protected. Typical trad protection spacing for other sections. No bolts or pitons. Mid- and mid-small cams useful for the crux (and other sections), perhaps a couple stopper placements. Slings for the tree stump. Lower section is a bit tricky: would require very large wide pieces to place in the crack itself, but mid-size stuff can be used off to the side in the right wall.

Top Rope: Straightforward to set up as a top-rope with a static line not more than 50 feet.

Photos

Matt Ritter
New York, NY
Matt Ritter   New York, NY
Fun climb with some committing stem moves. This problem would be a lot harder than 5.7 without using the dead tree. The roof variation is also a lot more fun than the regular way and avoids pulling on yet another tree. Nov 27, 2017
kenr
 
kenr  
 
This time I noted what protection I placed. Didn't place or see much use for anything larger than a #1 Camalot - (unless you've got truly big wide stuff for the lower crack). Lots of uses for stuff in the range of Mastercam 2 and 3. Small cams could be useful to place in horizontal under the roof Variation. Placed a couple of stoppers, one with an oppositional to hold it in place.

The less-difficult sections did not have as many opportunities to protect as the crux dihedral at mid-level (but that's the Trad leading game). The first 20-25 feet off the ground, I found some placements over in the right wall of the open book / dihedral. Jun 5, 2015