Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: Barone, Crefeld, Maclean, Crefeld, August 2008
Page Views: 1,204 total · 18/month
Shared By: Byron Igoe on Nov 11, 2013
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route

7 Opinions

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Climb up the face just to the right of the Ogre Arete. Move right onto a ledge, then up and left through the roof, which is the crux. Continue up easily to trees.


Start just behind the Ogre Arete in the chimney.


Standard rack. Plenty of nut placements, and even a tricam. You can probably get a #4 or #5 cam in the off-width, but it's unnecessary.


jon crefeld  
Great route with very specific start. Head right of the overhang for the standard finish. You can also pull the roof to the left with a big layback move. (solid 5.8) Thanks Fred Polvere and Silas Rossi.) Apr 8, 2014
The "red knob" does not help with finding or following the route. Near as I can tell it's at most a foot wide, and sits ten or fifteen feet below the right end of the roof.

As the earlier comment points out, the original route did not pull the roof. I assume the main description above intends the route after the red knob to diagonal way left to use the positive handholds toward the left side of the roof. (Perhaps someone could succeed in getting over the roof at its center or right side, but I think that would be much harder than 5.8)

"Direct" route:
First section do not use any hand or footholds on the left side of the dihedral: climb only on the right face. Next continue up the same face without using any of the footholds on the obvious ledge leading to the right (from the dihedral below the dead tree stump). When reach the red knob, go pretty much straight up at the right end of the roof (but not farther right to the easier holds on the original route finish).
Combines lots of interesting climbing. Difficulty I'd say overall at least 10a.

(a sub-variation for the follower is to start with hip touching the dead tree stump, and climb the face between the Dead Tree Dihedral and the "Direct" route)

Easier route:
First section freely use holds on the left side of the open book / dihedral. Then below the dead tree stump, traverse right to an obvious ledge, and continue farther right (total about 20 feet from the dihedral). Go up in an area of weakness -- actually to the right of the red knob, and definitely to the right of the right end of the roof. Lots of thoughtful moves with side-pulls and non-obvious footholds, fairly sustained. Finishing just a bit left of a frail old little pine bush. Jun 18, 2014
jon crefeld  
Ken - great to see someone giving these climbs so much thought, so we can compare notes. When we FA'd the route, the tree was not chopped, and I had some school kids with me. So, we set up P1 belay at the tree, brought everyone up and then moved up and right through some great cracks to the red knob (looks like you found it) and further right - got the great gear under the roof and pulled a slight overhang to the right of the roof by balancey laybacks. Lots of options - can't really go wrong! Dec 2, 2014
Can Top-Rope the "Madara variation" from the Manticore Face tree anchor: twenty to thirty feet below the top of the cliff, about ten feet climber's left (west) from the arete (requires a low class 5 move to get from the top of the cliff down to this tree, so recommend using a rope to reach it).
. . (Likely want at least one directional placement for TR).

The rock is high-friction, so think about how to minimize rope drag for Top-Roping. If belaying from the bottom, standing anywhere near Dead Tree Dihedral might produce lots of friction. Instead having the belayer stand below right from the Manticore Dihedral helps reduce rope friction. Oct 26, 2015