Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: Cliff Williams 2002
Page Views: 3,099 total · 48/month
Shared By: Byron Igoe on Nov 6, 2013
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route


45 Opinions

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Description

The obvious corner, bearing left at the fork.

Protection

Good trees for a top-rope anchor.

Photos

Mark Sudak  
 
Great route! I just climbed this route last week. It was in the sun all day, really exposed and had great protection throughout. Large pro at the start, smaller-medium sizes in the middle and then a good spot of a #3 BD Camalot in the roof. Dec 30, 2013
jon crefeld  
 
GPS 41.14502904, -74.16514297
This climb is a great welcome to the 'Linez. Super solid, great gear down low, and then airy in the crux. The standard route goes left of the big torpedo and most people don't climb the blocky roof at the end. The variation to the right of the torpedo is about the same grade, a little run-out, but terrific as well. Apr 8, 2014
kenr
 
kenr  
 
Not much jamming in the crack, but lots of interesting moves.

Note that setting up a Top-Rope in the easiest way using the tree at the top puts the rope on the climbers-right (east) side of the vertical "torpedo" high up -- which is really the finish of the Johnson Route (similar difficulty). And many climbers in the lower section then naturally tend to use holds from both of the Rachels and Johnson routes (makes it easier and still interesting).

Better way to set up the (more interesting) finish of Rachels Crack is to use a static line to set the Top-Rope anchor a few feet farther to climber's left (west), so the rope falls a bit on the west side of the "torpedo", but a little to the right (east) of main roof at the top of the crack -- because going directly over that roof is more difficult + strenuous, so many climbers will prefer to finish by stepping right and up over an easier (fun) overhang.

. . (The start of this route is also the start of a another rather interesting route which traverses left off from Rachel's -- see Tower Wall Direct Jun 6, 2014
petzl logic
Montreal, QC
 
petzl logic   Montreal, QC
 
An excellent and more challenging link-up is to do the bottom of Rachel's and then finish on the Johnson route.

Both are great climbs, but I think the link up would get an extra star from me. Oct 28, 2014
kenr
 
kenr  
 
I agree with ml242 that finishing to the right on upper Johnsons adds more variety (pure face climbing, unless you get wedged into the V-slot) to the route. Also quicker to set up as a top-rope.

But I feel that the normal finish to Rachels is plenty interesting. And setting up the top-rope to the climber's left (west) of the torpedo for Rachels also permits (with a small adjustment in TR setup) top-roping "Tower Wall Direct", which is plenty interesting (more than Johnsons?).

Anyway I'll guess what most people do is not a link-up but rather a "mix up" of lower Rachels with lower Johnsons -- so they avoid the interesting crack / layback moves on Rachels by using holds from Johnsons -- resulting in overall less variety of climbing.

I suggest that for more variety and sustained difficulty on the Rachels+Johnsons link-up, try to start on "pure" Rachels: avoiding the use of any footholds or handholds on the face to the right of the crack. Then cross over right to Johnsons only higher up near under the torpedo. Jun 5, 2015
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.8-
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.8-
I think the crux of this route is not getting dirt in your eyes. Some sweet hand jams and stemming though. It seems that every time I top rope solo this it is just as dirty. I think the way water runs of it is the issue. Too bad! I would do it all the time if it wasn't so damn dirty! Sep 7, 2017
A buddy and I were on this very recently doing a little clean aid climbing and the top flake past the torpedo on the left is ready to let loose. It has a ton of chalk on it and an obvious cam placement under it if leading it. I put about 30-40% of my body weight on a cam placed there and the whole flake flexed out a couple inches. It's not really attached to much of anything and if you hung off a piece here you're in for a ride and your belayer has a good chance of dying so....I'd avoid it. Nov 8, 2017
jon crefeld  
 
Jon - I wonder if the dirt if from the run-off of soil erosion up top. You see that all the time on Gunks climbs like Ribs. Nov 17, 2017
Albi Eds
Brooklyn, NY
 
Albi Eds   Brooklyn, NY
 
Been eyeing this climb up for lead for some time now and I took the chance to do it this past weekend with the warm spell. I've only top roped the bottom half before veering right into Johnson's crack in a rush to get the last climb in last summer.

Great pro most of the way up, though a big fall on this wall could be catastrophic, lots of horns and ledges to fall onto and as Lev mentioned the flake that he mentioned is pretty loose and only attached by maybe a foot or less of rock, it'll break in a matter of a few more climbs. That's what you get at the Powerlinez. Rock quality isn't so great and the leading is good for the headspace and dialing in precise movements and placements.

I was halfway up when the party above us was rappelling down yelled "ROCK!" Luckily it was a few routes over but my belayer was a few feet from impact from the softball sized rock. Appreciated the loud wailing call for the rock. Thanks guys. Wear a helmet around these parts!

A #4 and 2x #3s could be useful midway up and at the end. I only took up 1x #3 and felt a need for another. Large to midsize hexes could be utilized well here too. Jan 29, 2018
fvclimb  
Be careful when topping out on this route the big block at the top shifted when weighed it. Might be a good idea crow bar it off because if it falls it will be near the belayer. Other then that great climb with great gear the whole way. Feb 22, 2018
Half of the top block gave out and sprayed engine block sized rock across the belay area. The top shelf is totally unstable now, there’s about two hood sized rocks that will give out if you weigh them wrong. I’d avoid this whole area till someone cleans that top out. Be careful. Jul 18, 2018
Akira Gunji
Brooklyn, NY
  5.8
Akira Gunji   Brooklyn, NY
  5.8
@Jerry Gigolo I am seeing your comments now, The large (6' long x 2.3' x 1.5' and comes to a point ) block at the top has fallen on the ground. My belayer nearly escaped dodging into the alcove at the bottom with only a ripped jacket and gash on his back. Today we are hoping that rain would stop at some point but did not stop carefully climbed the entire way. Initially when pulled rock seemed to be solid enough but when I put my right feet all crashing down I was fallen with the boulder, I am not sure if there is any more loose block out there but someone should clean the top portion between Rachel's Crack and Johnson's crack. Please be careful when topping out. Sep 8, 2018