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Routes in 6. The Tower Wall
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Any Which Way But Down/Ex-traction T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Arrowhead T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Back to the Gym T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Back to the Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bleed Between the Lines T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Crefeld Crank TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dead Tree Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ex-traction Slab TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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In & Out T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Johnson Route T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Manticore Dihedral T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Manticore Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Manticore Upper Arete T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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No Rest for the Wicked T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ogre Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rachel's Crack T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Red Knob, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rock Romancer TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rossinator, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tower Wall Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Unrest of the Witches TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Type: | TR, 25 ft (8 m) |
| GPS: | 41.145, -74.1653 |
| FA: | TR Jon Crefeld + Silas Rossi |
| Page Views: | 1,193 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Oct 15, 2015 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Looks improbable, but goes remarkably. Sustained.
Too bad it's not longer - (with a little more variety) - (though several other routes can be Top-Roped from same or nearby top anchor).
Up to the nose, then pass by it on right side.
Can continue further upward by using Manticore Face or Red Knob Madara Variation (tree-sling anchor), or more difficult Variation sections around the Red Knob route.
From the tree-sling anchor for Red Knob Madara Variation, could also top-rope ... Manticore Face, Rock Romancer, Manticore Dihedral , Picnics Arete, Picnics Dihedral ... and Manticore Upper Arete.
. . (Jon supplied the name, not Silas).
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Location
The rounded arete at the right side (east) of the large open book of the Dead Tree Dihedral - see on Overview of routes Photo.
Protection
Top-Rope: Can rappel down to the tree anchor for Manticore Face: about twenty to thirty feet below the top of the cliff, about ten feet climber's left (west) from the arete which forms the east side of Tower Wall (requires a low class 5 move to get from the top of the cliff down to this tree, so recommend using a rope to reach it).
The rock is high-friction, so think about how to minimize rope drag for Top-Roping. If belaying from the bottom, seems like having the belayer stand below right from the Manticore Dihedral helps reduce rope friction.
Protection for trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
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