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Routes in 6. The Tower Wall

Any Which Way But Down/Ex-traction T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Arrowhead TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Back to the Gym T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Back to the Wall T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crefeld Crank TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Tree Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ex-traction Slab TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In & Out T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Johnson Route T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Manticore Dihedral T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Manticore Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Manticore Upper Arete T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
No Rest for the Wicked TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ogre Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rachel's Crack T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Red Knob, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Romancer TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rossinator, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tower Wall Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unrest of the Witches TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: Norm Rasmussen 2015
Page Views: 118 total, 5/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 8, 2015
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Lots of thoughtful interesting face climbing.

Start under a small alcove, up a few feet on positive holds, than delicate traverse left into center of face. Roughly straight up from there (avoiding easier climbing on Johnsons or Ogre Arete).

Location

The face between Johnsons and Ogre Arete routes, at a small alcove below some orange-ish rock with the "arrowhead" about mid-way up.

Protection

Top-Roping: Can construct trad anchor near top of cliff by first walking west horizontally from base of Tower Wall past Three Bears and Daves Wall, then turn full Right onto trail up rocky slope, then follow trail gentler a short ways, finally bear right off trail to top of Tower Wall.

Protection for Trad leading is not very good: at best perhaps R.

Photos

Norm Rasmussen
North Jersey
Norm Rasmussen   North Jersey
The gear on the bottom half of the climb is there but only in select spots. If you don't see the spots, you may risk a ground fall. However if you get some gear in, it should be generally good. The route is there, keep climbing. Steeper than you think judging from the Tower Wall. Nov 13, 2015