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Routes in 6. The Tower Wall

Any Which Way But Down/Ex-traction T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Arrowhead TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Back to the Gym T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Back to the Wall T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Crefeld Crank TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Tree Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ex-traction Slab TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In & Out T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Johnson Route T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Manticore Dihedral T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Manticore Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Manticore Upper Arete T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
No Rest for the Wicked T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ogre Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rachel's Crack T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Red Knob, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Romancer TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rossinator, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tower Wall Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Unrest of the Witches TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: Jon Crefeld & Kevin Johnson, October 6, 2009
Page Views: 679 total, 14/month
Shared By: Byron Igoe on Nov 6, 2013
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Climb just to the left of the arete, mostly on the face. Then move right under the nose to finish. Moving right earlier brings it down a grade.

Location

Locate the obvious arete to the right of Rachel's Crack and Johnson Route.

Protection

Trees for a top-rope anchor. Extend the master point to reduce drag.
Matt Ritter
New York, NY
Matt Ritter   New York, NY
Fun climb. Starting on the face is definitely harder than the arete, with some technical moves that I would call 5.9+. If you're not comfortable leading at the grade, you can hike to the top or lead Dead Tree Dihedral to get up there. Nov 27, 2017
kenr
 
kenr  
 
Seems like it's easier (and more fun?) for the Follower to start on the Arete. Then about twenty feet up there's a delicate step left onto the face. (like around 5.8)

To me starting on the face below to left of the arete felt like had lots of demanding thoughtful moves (around 5.9) -- but not necessarily the most fun kind.

Higher up I reached an obvious overhanging nose. Passing it on the right seemed more difficult and interesting (but encroaches onto the Dead Tree Dihedral route). Toward the left side is easier (but surely off the arete).
But also I was able go straight over that nose with one hand grabbing the arete -- and that might be the best way to sustain the level of difficulty.

Above that to sustain higher difficulty, I went a bit to left of (and did not use) the bush which can be grabbed to keep the Dead Tree Dihedral at difficulty not greater than 5.7. Then near the top I went to the left of another little bush (evergreen?)

Ken Jun 6, 2014