Back to the Gym
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 80 ft|
|FA:||Ken + Sharon Roberts 2015|
|Page Views:||324 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||kenr on Jul 13, 2015|
DescriptionSome positive handholds with "gym" moves in some sections -- including a sustained sequence in lower part of route. Some slabby "outdoor" moves in others.
Start on the main wall behind the Shark's tooth flake. For the athletic "gym" start, grab the tree stump about six feet off the ground, and haul up. For the clever "outdoor" approach try some bridging/stemming of feet between the flake and the main wall. Or perhaps most fun is to first climb to the top of the Shark's tooth detached flake, then step (or fall?) across onto the main wall.
Up a bit from the tree stump to a stance in the bottom of the obvious deep inside corner with an obvious crack. Next step up Left out of that corner, over about five feet to the bottom of a shallow open book with a small crack, two or three right of a nose. Straight up with "gym" moves to a ledge with a small tree.
Up about 20 feet from the tree, trending right to the arete - (joining the arete earlier offers more "outdoor" slab moves). Up the arete a little. Then continue up the middle of the face staying well to the right of a bush, with small (gym-like) flake holds facing right. Gentler slab, then finish with steep "gym" sequence up the right side of the darker rocks at the top.
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
LocationLeft side of the Tower Wall, behind the Shark's tooth detached flake (of Back to the Wall) - See on Overview of routes Photo.
ProtectionLead: Standard rack of cams + stoppers for Trad lead. I didn't see any use for anything larger than #1 Camalot. Doubles of smaller cams likely to be useful.
Top-Rope: Likely easiest with a rather long static line (perhaps 100 feet) for top anchor, to reach tree set way back from top of cliff. Perhaps helps to rappel or down-climb below top of cliff to set the carabiners lower to avoid getting the belay rope stuck on trees or protruding rocks, or dragging / abrading over an edge.
Reaching the top of the cliff: One simple (but not short) way is to hike left (WNW) past the base of sectors Three Bears and Daves Wall to the intersection of the Tower Wall tier trail with The Good Book access trail. Turn Right and follow The Good Book trail up a steep slope, then after it gets gentle, find a way off it right and upward toward the mini-summit view at the top of the Tower Wall cliff.