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Routes in 6. The Tower Wall

Any Which Way But Down/Ex-traction T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Arrowhead TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Back to the Gym T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Back to the Wall T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Crefeld Crank TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Tree Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ex-traction Slab TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In & Out T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Johnson Route T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Manticore Dihedral T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Manticore Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Manticore Upper Arete T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
No Rest for the Wicked T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ogre Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rachel's Crack T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Red Knob, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Romancer TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rossinator, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tower Wall Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Unrest of the Witches TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Jon Crefeld, Dave Barone, 9/16/10
Page Views: 1,478 total · 31/month
Shared By: kenr on Apr 7, 2014
Admins: SMarsh

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8 Opinions

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Description

Interesting thoughtful moves in a variety of rock situations.

Up the left arete of the Sharks Tooth detached flake to its top - (extra points for standing up straight on top in balance with no hands).
. . Variation 1 (less exciting but perhaps better protected for Leading): Start up the gully+face behind left side of Sharks Tooth.

Step (or fall?) across to the main face into a shallow alcove just left of a right-trending crack. Trend right up crack, or up to top of alcove then exit right to crack, and up to a ledge.

Next up shallow gully on right side of bulge.
. . Variation 2 (more interesting but not protected): Step left on ledge, then up over left side of bulge.
Move left to base of arete with fins which forms left edge of upper Tower Wall.

Up the arete with fins, perhaps with moves both strenuous and balancy (crux)
. . Variation 3: Climb a few feet on the face to right of arete up to overhang, then escape left to join the arete.

Finish up a short slab.

warning: The rock around this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

The Sharks Tooth is a detached flake about 15 feet high and 10 feet wide at the base of the left side of the Tower Wall. Start on the left side of the Sharks Tooth.

Protection

Lead: normal NY style Trad rack.

The 2011 print guidebook and the Rakkup phone app (as of 2017) seem to imply that this route is reasonably protectable, but a substantial percentage of climbers think it's more like PG-13.

Perhaps this route might be said to be reasonably protected if the leader "does everything right", including:
- uses Variation 1,
- takes extra care to make sure one of the low pieces does not pull out after climb past it,
- makes at least one strenuous placement which does not seem necessary at the time but is the last chance for awhile,
- accepts that a lengthy less-difficult section in the middle has no protection, and
- is prepared that while the tricky balancy sequence of the upper crux section may be 5.8 after you know it, on sight it might feel more like 5.9 and need more finger endurance/strength just to hang on while working out each move.

Top-Rope: Likely easiest with a very long static line (at least 100 ft) - to reach tree set way back from top of cliff - also likely want to rappel or down-climb below the top 20 or 30 feet to set the carabiners lower, so to avoid dragging / abrasion of the rope over the cliff top edge.

Reaching the top of the cliff: One simple (but not short) way is to hike left (WNW) past the base of sectors Three Bears and Daves Wall to the intersection of the Tower Wall tier trail with The Good Book access trail. Turn Right and follow The Good Book trail up a steep slope, then after it gets gentle, find a way off it right and upward toward the mini-summit view at the top of the Tower Wall cliff.

Photos

kenr
  5.8+
kenr  
  5.8+
I got a report that the lower half (with the variation of starting up behind the Sharks Tooth) is well-protected for Trad leading - (but then the reporter didn't do the upper half because went off route up right). Nov 23, 2017
Mark Sudak  
 
I also climb the sharks tooth first before getting on the wall. Two solid nut placements right off the deck followed by a nice horizontal for a .75 Camalot. From the alcove to the finger crack is pretty run out. I protected the start of the finger crack by burying a #0 Master Cam before making my next moves. From there the route is airy but all the holds are there. Hand crack above takes good gear.

I brought up my second on a gear anchor built in the small cave at the top of the slab. Be careful building this anchor as it requires some careful and creative nut and cam placements but once you find them they wont budge.

Overall a great route and probably my new favorite on the Tower Wall. Feb 21, 2017
kenr
  5.8+
kenr  
  5.8+
Yes going directly up over the lower-middle bulge (perhaps more toward its left side) adds some interesting challenge for the Follower.

Higher is another (harder) variation for the Follower is (instead of diagonaling left to the upper arete), to go straight up toward the upper bulge, then traverse left close under the bulge to join the arete higher up. Sep 19, 2014
kenr
  5.8+
kenr  
  5.8+
Lots of interesting moves with variety.
I think the most fun start is to first climb to the top of the Shark's tooth itself, then stepping (or falling) across to the main wall.

Top-rope did not require directionals, but fairly difficult to set up TR to achieve all of: avoid rope drag, monitor possible abrasion on anchor materials, and belay from the bottom. So I'd recommend plan on belaying from the top. Jun 6, 2014
jon crefeld  
 
GPS 41.14498797, -74.16538102.
A terrific line that takes a little more route-finding than the others. You get extra points if you don't use the tree behind the shark's tooth boulder. Then there is an unprotectable bulge that most people move around on lead. If you're 2nd it's a nice challenge. I think it's possible to bail left right before the airy finish - but if you don't and follow the right leaning crack until you swing right - it is greatness for the grade. Apr 8, 2014

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