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Routes in 6. The Tower Wall

Any Which Way But Down/Ex-traction T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Arrowhead TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Back to the Gym T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Back to the Wall T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Crefeld Crank TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Tree Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ex-traction Slab TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In & Out T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Johnson Route T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Manticore Dihedral T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Manticore Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Manticore Upper Arete T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
No Rest for the Wicked T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ogre Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rachel's Crack T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Red Knob, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Romancer TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rossinator, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tower Wall Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Unrest of the Witches TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 20 ft
FA: Ken + Sharon Roberts 2015
Page Views: 171 total · 6/month
Shared By: kenr on Oct 15, 2015
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Sustained thoughtful moves with a variety of techniques.
Too bad it's not longer.

Extra benefits of this short route are to lead it up to near the Manticore Face tree anchor (from which several other routes can be Top-Roped).
Or to lead it to enable less-strong following climbers to reach the bottom of the (much less difficult) Manticore Upper Arete route -
by attaching an etrier / aid ladder to one or more pieces of protection, so they could climb the Dihedral with a lower requirement of strength and technique - (or the etrier could be placed on rappel).

Route: Go straight up the dihedral to a ledge. Can then continue up to reach a tree-sling anchor (or to the top of the cliff), by using Manticore Upper Arete .

From the Manticore Face tree-sling anchor, could also top-rope Rock Romancer, Manticore Face, Red Knob Madara variation, and The Rossinator. From a nearby top anchor, perhaps could also Top-Rope the Picnics Arete and Picnics Dihedral routes, and perhaps with a directional the Rodeo Clown boulder problem.

. . . [ Manticore? | images ] . . .

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

Large open book with thin vertical cracks, in the right (east) end of the Tower Wall, about ten feet uphill around the corner from the obvious arete at the right end of the Tower Wall, and about ten feet downhill left from the Picnics Dihedral .
. (really the Manticore Dihedral is in the Sunny Picnics area, but it connects better with Tower Wall routes).

Protection

Lead: Multiple vertical cracks take small cams and stoppers. One or two points for placing protection have strenuous stances.

Top-Rope: Top anchor can be set up with a static line from one (or two) trees -- might need to use two trees to handle the angle. Or control rope angle by using a sling from the Manticore Face tree anchor: twenty to thirty feet below the top of the cliff, about ten feet climber's left (west) from the arete (requires a low class 5 move to get from the top of the cliff down to this tree, so recommend using a rope to reach it).

Might need Trad directional protection to prevent a falling climber swinging toward climber's left (west).

The rock is high-friction, so think about how to minimize rope drag for Top-Roping. If belaying from the bottom, seems like having the belayer stand below right from the Manticore Dihedral helps reduce rope friction.

Photos

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