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Routes in 6. The Tower Wall

Any Which Way But Down/Ex-traction T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Arrowhead TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Back to the Gym T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Back to the Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Crefeld Crank TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Tree Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ex-traction Slab TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In & Out T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Johnson Route T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Manticore Dihedral T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Manticore Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Manticore Upper Arete T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
No Rest for the Wicked T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ogre Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rachel's Crack T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Red Knob, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Romancer TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rossinator, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tower Wall Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Unrest of the Witches TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: TR, 80 ft
FA: TR Jon Crefeld 2015
Page Views: 186 total, 6/month
Shared By: kenr on Jul 13, 2015
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Interesting lower sequence with a strenuous crux move. Unfortunately the crux is a bit contrived and the climbing above it is all much easier.

Named in honor of the climber whose vision and drive and persistance opened Powerlinez climbing for so many of us.

Start in the center of the slab face, up a small right-facing corner. Continue up the center, trending a bit right, then step left under the overhang (or try going more directly up to left side of overhang).

Pull the overhang _without_ using the left edge of the nose or the crack just left of it (which is the vertical crack of the right-side version of the Ex-Traction route).

variation: If use the left edge or crack left of it, the overhang goes more like 5.9

If do not just lower off after working the crux ...
Go up a a bit, then right to the arete, and up that a little. Then up the center of the face, with some small flake holds facing right. Finish up the right side of the darker rocks at top. (same finish as Back to the Gym ). A little less easy is the
Ex-traction finish up the center of the darker top rocks.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

The center of the slab face to the Left of the Shark's Tooth detached flake and to the Right of the crack system (of Ex-Traction) which is 15 feet to the left of the Shark's Tooth.
See on Overview of routes Photo.

Protection

Top-rope set up requires long static line for top anchor, and likely requires rappelling down to get both ends of the rops to the bottom without getting stuck in trees or protruding rocks.
Protection for Trad lead is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

kenr
 
kenr  
 
Jon C didn't name the climb, I did. Afterward I failed to complete the crux move clean on different days in different months (without Jon around to coach me). But I felt confident that a stronger climber would send it, so I put it up on here MP.

So another month later, Jon C showed up and "cranked" it clean (with me watching) today. Afterward I tried, and even with Jon's example and hints, I still didn't get it. I have the excuse that I'm not fully recovered from a shoulder injury. Anyway I learned from Jon an improvement in my sequence so I'll have a better chance to get it next time. Oct 9, 2015