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Routes in 6. The Tower Wall

Any Which Way But Down/Ex-traction T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Arrowhead TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Back to the Gym T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Back to the Wall T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Crefeld Crank TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Tree Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ex-traction Slab TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In & Out T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Johnson Route T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Manticore Dihedral T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Manticore Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Manticore Upper Arete T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
No Rest for the Wicked T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ogre Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rachel's Crack T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Red Knob, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Romancer TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rossinator, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tower Wall Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Unrest of the Witches TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Jon Crefeld, Jono Crefeld, 08/10/09
Page Views: 346 total, 8/month
Shared By: kenr on Apr 7, 2014
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route


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Description

Lots of thoughtful moves.

Up about five feet to the cracks. Simplest is to follow the left crack upward trending slightly right, then left through a concave scoop up to a ledge.
. . Varation 1 (a bit harder): Instead follow the right crack -- at first diagonal, then straight up into vertical crack at left edge of small overhang (which is the crux overhang of the Crefeld Crank route) -- then step left to the ledge.

Next up the left side of a fractured block. Then a little (awkward?) overhang move at left side of bush. Finish up through (overhanging) center of darker top rocks.
. . Variation 2 (easier finish): Instead go around right side of bush, join the "Back to the Gym" route in finishing over right side of darker top rocks).

warning: The rock around this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Below a crack system about 15 feet left of the Shark's Tooth detached flake, near the slight ridge where the main left face of the Tower Wall bends to merge with slab of sector Three Bears.

. . (The start of thie route feels more like on Three Bears, but the finish (and top-rope anchor) is arguably more like the other routes on left side of Tower Wall).

Protection

Lead: normal NY style Trad rack, perhaps with emphasis on smaller stuff.
. . See Comments below.

Top-Rope: Likely easiest with a rather long static line (perhaps 100 feet) for top anchor, to reach tree set way back from top of cliff. Perhaps helps to rappel or down-climb below top of cliff to set the carabiners lower to avoid getting the belay rope stuck on trees or protruding rocks, or dragging / abrading over an edge.

Reaching the top of the cliff: One simple (but not short) way is to hike left (WNW) past the base of sectors Three Bears and Daves Wall to the intersection of the Tower Wall tier trail with The Good Book access trail. Turn Right and follow The Good Book trail up a steep slope, then after it gets gentle, find a way off it right and upward toward the mini-summit view at the top of the Tower Wall cliff.

Photos

Jack Servedio
Raleigh,NC
  5.8
Jack Servedio   Raleigh,NC
  5.8
For a fun alternate, after you do the boulder at the bottom, instead of going to the right of the bush, go left/straight up and finish on Risky Bear. More direct, though a bit easier line.

There is a lot of placements for smaller nuts at the concave feature at the start if you look for them.

Be aware of where you are running your rope in relation to the bushes in the spring/summer - I learned this the hard way the first time I was wandering up the left side of tower/right side of three bears. May 31, 2017
kenr
 
kenr  
 
? Protection for Trad leading ?
The low cracks are a bit flary, don't take stoppers well. Bring multiple small cams, and try finding exactly the right spot in the crack where there is a hope that they might hold better. Jul 13, 2015