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Routes in 6. The Tower Wall

Any Which Way But Down/Ex-traction T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Arrowhead TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Back to the Gym T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Back to the Wall T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Crefeld Crank TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Tree Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ex-traction Slab TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In & Out T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Johnson Route T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Manticore Dihedral T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Manticore Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Manticore Upper Arete T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
No Rest for the Wicked T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ogre Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rachel's Crack T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Red Knob, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Romancer TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rossinator, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tower Wall Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Unrest of the Witches TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: TR, 80 ft
FA: Jonah Klein
Page Views: 192 total, 7/month
Shared By: kenr on Jul 13, 2015
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Lots of slab climbing -- footwork and balance needed in the bottom 25 feet. Then easier slab moves. Then two short overhangs to the top.

This route seems to be much like the Risky Bear route assigned to the Three Bears Wall. It is included here so that climbers exploring Tower Wall can be aware that it's worthwhile to do it from near or the same anchors used for routes on Tower Wall, and to clarify a distinct line of climbing which does not cross other routes on Tower Wall. Anyway however the naming and assignment to a sector gets worked out, meanwhile go ahead and just enjoy the climbing.

Start on the face to the left of the Ex-traction cracks. Up that (likely with an early right-to-left trend). Easier slabs section, then a short steep move about five feet left of a bush (of Ex-traction). Another slab section, then finish up small dihedral open book through left half of darker top rocks - (left of where Ex-traction finishes through center or right-center of the darker top rocks).

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

On the slab face just left of the crack system (of Ex-traction) which is about 15 feet left of the Shark's Tooth detached flake.

Protection

Top-rope set up requires long static line for top anchor. Likely need to rappel down to get both ends of the rope to the bootom.
Protection for Trad leading unknown, likely inadequate.

Photos

How's the protection Ken? And correct me if I'm wrong, but the crux is the vertical top piece? Sep 4, 2015