Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Routes in 6. The Tower Wall
|Any Which Way But Down/Ex-traction T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Arrowhead TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Back to the Gym T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Back to the Wall T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Crefeld Crank TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Dead Tree Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Ex-traction Slab TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|In & Out T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Johnson Route T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Manticore Dihedral T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Manticore Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Manticore Upper Arete T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|No Rest for the Wicked T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Ogre Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Rachel's Crack T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Red Knob, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Rock Romancer TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Rossinator, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Tower Wall Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Unrest of the Witches TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Type:||TR, 80 ft|
|Page Views:||192 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||kenr on Jul 13, 2015|
DescriptionLots of slab climbing -- footwork and balance needed in the bottom 25 feet. Then easier slab moves. Then two short overhangs to the top.
This route seems to be much like the Risky Bear route assigned to the Three Bears Wall. It is included here so that climbers exploring Tower Wall can be aware that it's worthwhile to do it from near or the same anchors used for routes on Tower Wall, and to clarify a distinct line of climbing which does not cross other routes on Tower Wall. Anyway however the naming and assignment to a sector gets worked out, meanwhile go ahead and just enjoy the climbing.
Start on the face to the left of the Ex-traction cracks. Up that (likely with an early right-to-left trend). Easier slabs section, then a short steep move about five feet left of a bush (of Ex-traction). Another slab section, then finish up small dihedral open book through left half of darker top rocks - (left of where Ex-traction finishes through center or right-center of the darker top rocks).
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).