All Locations > New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Capulin Canyon… > Capulin Canyon > Upper Wall

Chokecherry

Name: Chokecherry
Rating: 3.0

5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British

Routes in Upper Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Achilles T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Adiós Alemanes T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	After Party Party T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Apostate, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Asterix and Oblelix T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Barracuda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Beasts of the Northern Wild T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Booster Seat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Buck Nasty T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Buck Up T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Burning Down the House T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Burning Man T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Burnt Tree Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Charlie's Six T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Chimenea T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Chimney Sweep T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Chokecherry T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Chunnel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Divisions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Dread Pirate Roberts T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Ephemeral Epitomist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Eternal Optimist T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Feeding Frenzy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Fix T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Frogger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Full Monty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Glasnost Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Handyman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Haymaker, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Hector T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Isengard T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Kev Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Magnum T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Methedras T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Moondog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	More Cowbell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	New Mexico Welcome Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Odyssey, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Opus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Percussion Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Psycho Killer T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Russian Jenga T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Shadow Boxing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Solstice T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Sundog T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Tensioner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Tip of the Toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Tips Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Title 9 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Trojan, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Und Foxi T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Unknown T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unknown Finger Crack T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Unnamed Wide Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Zozobra T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 195 ft (59 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Josh Smith, Erik Hanschen
Page Views:	482 total · 10/month
Shared By:	Josh Smith on Oct 22, 2019
Admins:	Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This route shares the first 50 feet or so of Beasts of the Northern Wild and is higher quality. There is a 5.11- crux right off the ground (well protected but think about rope drag when placing gear) which leads to a very easy ramp. The wall turns vertical again and the crack goes into a body-sized V slot/roof feature; climb into this slot (good but tricky protection) and step into the right dihedral (go left here for Beasts). Delicate 5.11 climbing with small gear (take some RPs or small nuts) leads you to a terrific ledge about 40 feet from the top. If you still have energy, keep going up the perfect acute corner. Or, build a gear belay and bring up your partner so that you can admire their technique on steep #0.75s.

To get down, rap with a single 70 to the lower Beasts anchor, then to the ground.

Location

Chokecherry starts in the same corner as Beasts of the Northern Wild and branches into the right corner about 50 feet up. This is the first corner past the big panel that contains Zozobra, Burning Man, and Tip of the Toe. While it is possible to climb the broken rock to the right to get into the corner system, the obvious finger crack start is a lot higher quality.

Protection

Doubles from 0 - #2, set RPs. The upper dihedral is probably best climbed with two #0.5s and four #0.75s. Possible to place a #3 right off the ledge and a #1 up high but both are optional. Slings to control rope drag.