Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 257 total · 4/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Oct 30, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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The 5.12 listed in "Rock and Road." A slight offset crack that slowly gets wider up a gently overhanging and featureless wall. The crux is tight greens through the overhanging section, with no feet. Short and straight forward; pure (and painful) crack climbing at its best.

The anchor is two Rawl 5 piece bolts right under the roof.


Splits the middle of the obvious blank wall.


(2) #0.5
(3-4) #0.75
(3-4) #1


Josh Smith
Josh Smith  
Information on who did the FA of this one would be appreciated. Oct 27, 2014
Josh, just rumor but I had always heard it was the gang that discovered the Enchanted Tower. Bertrand Garmont or something like that. Could be wrong. Rad route though. Don't forget the tape! Oct 31, 2014
Josh Smith
Josh Smith  
Thanks, Eric. Would be fun to know more history. What a difficult size--I couldn't decide between laybacking and climbing it straight on; pulling on cams ended up being the the most realistic strategy. Eager to get back on it. Nov 4, 2014
I used a combo of desperate and delicate laybacking and pulling on cams. I cannot jam it straight on because of the offset. Thanks for putting in the anchor. Nov 5, 2014
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
This thing is burly. The combination of overhang, lean, offset, and bevel make this really difficult to jam and no easier to lieback. The crack also seems to pinch at the lip and open up inside, making jamming harder and resulting in gear that opens up as you climb past it.
Some red Metolius cams or 1.5 friends would be more useful than 0.5s after a body length, and black Metolius cams or 2 friends would be better than tippy 0.75s higher up. Nov 26, 2018