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Routes in Upper Wall

Achilles T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
AdiĆ³s Alemanes T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
After Party Party T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Apostate, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Asterix and Oblelix T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barracuda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Beasts of the Northern Wild T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Booster Seat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Buck Nasty T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Buck Up T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Burning Man T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burnt Tree Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney Sweep T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chunnel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Divisions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dread Pirate Roberts T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ephemeral Epitomist. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eternal Optimist T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Feeding Frenzy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fix T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frogger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Full Monty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Glasnost Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Handyman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haymaker, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hector T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Isengard T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Kev Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magnum T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Methedras T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moondog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Mexico Welcome Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Odyssey, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Opus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Percussion Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Psycho Killer T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Russian Jenga T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shadow Boxing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solstice T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sundog T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tensioner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tip of the Toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tips Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Title 9 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trojan, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Und Foxi T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Finger Crack T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed Wide Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Zozobra T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 143 total, 3/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Oct 30, 2013
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

The 5.12 listed in "Rock and Road." A slight offset crack that slowly gets wider up a gently overhanging and featureless wall. The crux is tight greens through the overhanging section, with no feet. Short and straight forward; pure (and painful) crack climbing at its best.

The anchor is two Rawl 5 piece bolts right under the roof.

Location

Splits the middle of the obvious blank wall.

Protection

(2) #0.5
(3-4) #0.75
(3-4) #1

Photos

I used a combo of desperate and delicate laybacking and pulling on cams. I cannot jam it straight on because of the offset. Thanks for putting in the anchor. Nov 5, 2014
Josh Smith  
 
Thanks, Eric. Would be fun to know more history. What a difficult size--I couldn't decide between laybacking and climbing it straight on; pulling on cams ended up being the the most realistic strategy. Eager to get back on it. Nov 4, 2014
Josh, just rumor but I had always heard it was the gang that discovered the Enchanted Tower. Bertrand Garmont or something like that. Could be wrong. Rad route though. Don't forget the tape! Oct 31, 2014
Josh Smith  
 
Information on who did the FA of this one would be appreciated. Oct 27, 2014