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Routes in Upper Wall

Achilles T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
AdiĆ³s Alemanes T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
After Party Party T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Apostate, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Asterix and Oblelix T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barracuda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Beasts of the Northern Wild T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Booster Seat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Buck Nasty T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Buck Up T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Burning Man T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burnt Tree Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney Sweep T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chunnel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Divisions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dread Pirate Roberts T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ephemeral Epitomist. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eternal Optimist T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Feeding Frenzy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fix T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frogger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Full Monty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Glasnost Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Handyman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haymaker, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hector T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Isengard T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Kev Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magnum T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Methedras T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moondog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Mexico Welcome Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Odyssey, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Opus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Percussion Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Psycho Killer T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Russian Jenga T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shadow Boxing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solstice T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sundog T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tensioner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tip of the Toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tips Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Title 9 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trojan, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Und Foxi T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Finger Crack T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed Wide Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Zozobra T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Josh Smith
Page Views: 534 total, 20/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Oct 18, 2015
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This is an extraordinary route in an extraordinary location and well worth the effort of climbing a (fun) approach pitch to get to it. The route starts on a civilized belay ledge at the base of the crack, climbs beautiful 11- fingers/thin hands to a pod where it possible to get a no hands rest below a tiny roof. The business begins with 12+ laybacking up a shallow edge for about ten feet to a jug and a quasi-rest/stem; excellent nut placement here. More 5.12 stemming and face climbing takes you to the top, past one bolt. Anchors/chains at top.

Location

When you're approaching the main wall from the wash, look up and you'll see the tower on the second level of rock, directly above New Mexico Welcome Party. Climb After Party Party to reach the ledge, unrope and walk the 100 feet to the base of the tower.

Protection

2 each (#0.1 - #1), optional #3 for the pod, a handful of medium nuts. Past the roof, it is possible to place two bomber nuts and one so-so nut. The so-so nut goes is in soft rock about three feet below the bolt, hence the bolt.

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