Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Josh Smith
Page Views: 740 total · 19/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Oct 18, 2015
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This is an extraordinary route in an extraordinary location and well worth the effort of climbing a (fun) approach pitch to get to it. The route starts on a civilized belay ledge at the base of the crack, climbs beautiful 11- fingers/thin hands to a pod where it possible to get a no hands rest below a tiny roof. The business begins with 12+ laybacking up a shallow edge for about ten feet to a jug and a quasi-rest/stem; excellent nut placement here. More 5.12 stemming and face climbing takes you to the top, past one bolt. Anchors/chains at top.

Location

When you're approaching the main wall from the wash, look up and you'll see the tower on the second level of rock, directly above New Mexico Welcome Party. Climb After Party Party to reach the ledge, unrope and walk the 100 feet to the base of the tower.

Protection

2 each (#0.1 - #1), optional #3 for the pod, a handful of medium nuts. Past the roof, it is possible to place two bomber nuts and one so-so nut. The so-so nut goes is in soft rock about three feet below the bolt, hence the bolt.

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