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Routes in Upper Wall

Achilles T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
AdiĆ³s Alemanes T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
After Party Party T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Apostate, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Asterix and Oblelix T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barracuda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Beasts of the Northern Wild T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Booster Seat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Buck Nasty T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Buck Up T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Burning Down the House T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Burning Man T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burnt Tree Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney Sweep T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chunnel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Divisions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dread Pirate Roberts T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ephemeral Epitomist. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eternal Optimist T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Feeding Frenzy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fix T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frogger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Full Monty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Glasnost Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Handyman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haymaker, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hector T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Isengard T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Kev Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magnum T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Methedras T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moondog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
More Cowbell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Mexico Welcome Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Odyssey, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Opus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Percussion Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Psycho Killer T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Russian Jenga T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shadow Boxing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solstice T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sundog T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tensioner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tip of the Toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tips Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Title 9 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trojan, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Und Foxi T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Finger Crack T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed Wide Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Zozobra T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Josh Smith, George Perkins
Page Views: 124 total · 2/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Oct 29, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Interesting and extremely varied climbing. Very un-Capulin like. The gear is good, but it takes some thinking, particularly for the upper 1/3rd.

Location

First crack to the left of Buck Up.

Protection

First piece is a nut in a fantastic constriction, then interesting and varied climbing. Double rack from #0.2 to #2 with a few extras in the tips sizes. Set medium nuts.

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10d
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10d
This is #12 in the route list, where it is called "Pandora's Box", which was a mistake. Josh named it "Divisions", which (I think) we both like better. Oct 30, 2013
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
  5.10+
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
  5.10+
Had a really good time on this route, interesting and varied like advertised. Though, I dont think anyone had climbed it for a few years, not a speck of chalk and a little crusty. Plucked a few chunks out of the upper crux section corner crack, it makes the crack protect way better now, cams against good solid rock instead of rattly pieces.

Its a good long route and certainly worth doing. Nice to have a variety of 5.10s out here.Good find J and G! Might could bring a #4 for the crux, but I htink a variety of stuff could work here too. Also, I thought a green C3 (00) was useful at the top of the easy section, and a larger cam protects the moves off the ground really well, if you want one before the trucker large stopper that they recommend. Feb 19, 2018

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