Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Josh Smith, George Perkins
Page Views: 132 total · 2/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Oct 29, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Interesting and extremely varied climbing. Very un-Capulin like. The gear is good, but it takes some thinking, particularly for the upper 1/3rd.

Location

First crack to the left of Buck Up.

Protection

First piece is a nut in a fantastic constriction, then interesting and varied climbing. Double rack from #0.2 to #2 with a few extras in the tips sizes. Set medium nuts.

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10d
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10d
This is #12 in the route list, where it is called "Pandora's Box", which was a mistake. Josh named it "Divisions", which (I think) we both like better. Oct 30, 2013
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
  5.10+
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
  5.10+
Had a really good time on this route, interesting and varied like advertised. Though, I dont think anyone had climbed it for a few years, not a speck of chalk and a little crusty. Plucked a few chunks out of the upper crux section corner crack, it makes the crack protect way better now, cams against good solid rock instead of rattly pieces.

Its a good long route and certainly worth doing. Nice to have a variety of 5.10s out here.Good find J and G! Might could bring a #4 for the crux, but I htink a variety of stuff could work here too. Also, I thought a green C3 (00) was useful at the top of the easy section, and a larger cam protects the moves off the ground really well, if you want one before the trucker large stopper that they recommend. Feb 19, 2018