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Routes in Upper Wall

Achilles T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Adiós Alemanes T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
After Party Party T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Apostate, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Asterix and Oblelix T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barracuda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Beasts of the Northern Wild T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Booster Seat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Buck Nasty T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Buck Up T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Burning Man T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burnt Tree Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney Sweep T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chunnel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Divisions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dread Pirate Roberts T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ephemeral Epitomist. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eternal Optimist T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Feeding Frenzy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fix T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frogger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Full Monty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Glasnost Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Handyman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haymaker, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hector T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Isengard T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Kev Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magnum T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Methedras T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moondog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
More Cowbell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
New Mexico Welcome Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Odyssey, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Opus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Percussion Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Psycho Killer T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Russian Jenga T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shadow Boxing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solstice T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sundog T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tensioner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tip of the Toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tips Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Title 9 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trojan, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Und Foxi T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Finger Crack T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed Wide Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Zozobra T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 72 ft
FA: Jason Halladay, Hagen Telg
Page Views: 101 total · 2/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Oct 30, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Stephen Chojnowski

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Access Issue: June 1, 2018 - The entire Santa Fe National Forest closed to access due Stage III Fire Restrictions Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Enjoyable face climbing/finger crack start leads to an easy ramp following a finger crack. Hands to wide hands climbing leads to an overhanging, offset #4 camalot crux crack. The offset nature of the crack means one doesn't have to conjure up serious OW climbing.

Cop a rest above the overhanging crux before finishing up via an offset wide crack/chimney to a ledge and the anchor.

Location [Suggest Change]

Adiós Alemanes starts six feet left of Sundog in the dark flared crack with nice finger crack in back. The route was new in October 2013 and not listed on Josh's excellent Upper Wall mini guide.

Mini guide for upper wall

Protection [Suggest Change]

Two each .5, .75, #4 camalots. One each #1, #2, #3, #5 camalots. Optional blue big bro or #6 for finish. Two bolt anchor at top.

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11a
A #6 camalot is recommended. You'd have to run it out to the anchor, like 15' or something, without that (or a big bro). Dec 21, 2013
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
The #6 doesn't give you much, I placed it about a foot above the #5 and then had to climb past it anyhow. But considering there is no gear for last 15" of wide, its worth having. I might also add that its fairly physical for the grade. Even the FA party has a photo of an overhead foot cam in the downward flaring and offset 5" crack. I didn't use that beta, but maybe I should have. If this seems 11a to you, you are all set.

In the end, its a very enjoyable route with fun cruxy-wide climbing on steep terrain, just know what you re launching into. Nov 15, 2015

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