Type: Trad, 72 ft
FA: Jason Halladay, Hagen Telg
Page Views: 126 total · 2/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Oct 30, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Enjoyable face climbing/finger crack start leads to an easy ramp following a finger crack. Hands to wide hands climbing leads to an overhanging, offset #4 camalot crux crack. The offset nature of the crack means one doesn't have to conjure up serious OW climbing.

Cop a rest above the overhanging crux before finishing up via an offset wide crack/chimney to a ledge and the anchor.

Location

Adiós Alemanes starts six feet left of Sundog in the dark flared crack with nice finger crack in back. The route was new in October 2013 and not listed on Josh's excellent Upper Wall mini guide.

Mini guide for upper wall

Protection

Two each .5, .75, #4 camalots. One each #1, #2, #3, #5 camalots. Optional blue big bro or #6 for finish. Two bolt anchor at top.

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11a
A #6 camalot is recommended. You'd have to run it out to the anchor, like 15' or something, without that (or a big bro). Dec 21, 2013
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
The #6 doesn't give you much, I placed it about a foot above the #5 and then had to climb past it anyhow. But considering there is no gear for last 15" of wide, its worth having. I might also add that its fairly physical for the grade. Even the FA party has a photo of an overhead foot cam in the downward flaring and offset 5" crack. I didn't use that beta, but maybe I should have. If this seems 11a to you, you are all set.

In the end, its a very enjoyable route with fun cruxy-wide climbing on steep terrain, just know what you re launching into. Nov 15, 2015