Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Josh Smith, Aaron Miller, Rich Strang
Page Views: 168 total · 3/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Oct 30, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Fingers laybacking to thin tips to thin hands. Varied and very entertaining.

Location

Next corner down from the obvious Zozobra/Burning Man alcove.

Protection

Set TCUs, 2 or 3 each 0.5-#1, (need 3-#1s for the thin hands) one #2. Selection of small nuts useful. Save a couple of 1s for the thin hands right before the anchor.

Photos

Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
This route was done in one long pitch on the FA, however, due to rope drag issues and a possible ledge fall, a mid anchor was placed off the large ledge about 90 feet up.
The first pitch is 5.11 and starts with some big moves through several good .5 camalot placements to an easier slab that brings you to a roof block. Above you get some wild and technical movement where you have to fiddle a few small pieces in (#4 stopper and/or grey-C3). Amazing rock and fantastic climbing.
The second pitch is steep and powerful 11c that climbs through tight hands. A .4 camalot protects the first move well, but you have to reach to place it.

This route can be rapped with a single rope, watch your ends, a 60m is close. Nov 18, 2013
Aaron,
We climbed it as one pitch I guess before you placed the intermediate anchor. Do you start in the corner proper or up the broken easy terrain? We took the easier line, but the other start looks much better. As for the upper crack, it was too high for us shorties to reach, but the move wasn't too bad. Very good route, nice job. Nov 18, 2013
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11d
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
  5.11d
The original start was the corner proper (nice black varnished rock) with a couple good finger layback moves (.5 camalot) to some rounded holds which get you onto the ramp that continues up the main corner. Easier hands/wide hands follows and then the stem section on the smooth black face/corner
Nice job on the send Eric Nov 18, 2013
Thanks, but I actually followed it. I was lucky enough to lead Burning Man, then follow Beasts. Two awesome routes. Nov 18, 2013