Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Josh Smith, George Perkins, Calita Quesada
Page Views: 1,203 total · 19/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Nov 10, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

A remarkably fun and moderate second pitch to either Moondog (probably the best approach) or P1 of the Full Monty. Look for the handcrack splitting the roof on the second tier of the Full Monty alcove. Good hands leads to a four or five foot #5 section below a roof. Pull the roof, punch through another roof on #2s to a nice hand crack, then face climb up an interesting and textured face, placing gear in the crack and in good horizontals.

Location

In the second tier of the first big alcove on the upper wall; locate Moondog or the Full Monty; Glasnost is directly opposite Full Monty, above Moondog.

Protection

1 each 0.2 to #1, 3 or 4 each (#2), 1 each #5.

Photos

Josh Smith
  5.10-
Josh Smith  
  5.10-
Nov. 10th 2013: has some dust/dirt on the edges right now. Still fun but will be cleaner after one rain storm. Nov 12, 2013
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
This is a really fun upper tier pitch. We accessed it by climbing Moondog, clipping a draw on the anchor, and traversing right about 30 feet to the base of the crack and belay off a good yellow camalot and standing on fairly flat ground. If you leave this cam at the base for the belay, be sure to bring 2-3 more for the pitch. Nov 21, 2013
The roofs look harder than they are. We ascended this by the lower half Monty as we did not discover the nearness of the Moondog anchors until we were in the upper tier basin. There is a nice thread hole anchor plus #2 Camalot placement right at the base of the crack so the belay can be moved over after Half Monty. You said it Aaron. Forrest had only one other Yellow Camalot and had to hike it up the lower part. Apr 22, 2014