Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Josh Smith
Page Views: 846 total · 14/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on May 11, 2014
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

18 Opinions

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The route is fantastic except for one little blip. It has 80 feet of great hands in great rock up a steep face, but the first 20 feet on soft choss approaching the wall detract some. Traverse in from the right stepping carefully, clip a couple of fixed pieces (back clean the first). The white crumbly stuff is only about 5.0 and the crack is worth the dirty walk. Be careful with a 60m rope! It would be possible to lower off the end when lowering downhill--knot the end.


Last route on the upper wall before it folds into Capulet.


A #3 protects behind the big flake about 15 feet to the left of the start. A 0.4 or 0.5 protects the move onto the ledge to start the meat of the route. 1-#0.75, 3 each #1-2, #4 nice for the pod, #3 for the finish.


Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
Where else can you climb 80 feet of perfect hands through slightly overhanging splitter crack!!!

I would recommend traversing left all the way to the hands corner to start the climb. Bring some long draws to help you get there. The earlier finger start up the groove has some questionable rock. The route is awesome, worth the weird start!!!! Oct 11, 2014
Wes Martin
Denver, CO
Wes Martin   Denver, CO
Great route! If you have it available and want to sew it up, bring 5or6 #2s for the first part of the crack, 1 #4 for the offwidth pod, and 2 #3s for the last section. I didn't see too many good spots for the #1 and didn't use anything smaller. 5.10 b/c Dec 10, 2016