Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 251 total · 4/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Oct 30, 2013 with updates from Dylan Price
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

A clear line that goes all the way to the top of the cliff. Fun and varied climbing through a couple of roofs.

Location

Starts just right of the short blocky pillar with the off widths on either side.

Protection

0.5 to #1, a few #2s, and at least three or four #3s. A #4 or two is useful as well. One #5 for the OW section.

A 70m just makes it down.

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George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10c
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10c
Best 5.10 at Capulin? Oct 15, 2017
Dan Nix
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
Dan Nix   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
Such a good climb! Tried to push through the Perkins Direct variation and smeared down the OW section before stepping out to the 5.8 face variation. Get on this bad boy! Oct 15, 2017
Dylan Price
Bellingham, WA
Dylan Price   Bellingham, WA
Fun route! 70m just makes it. Although the route overall is quality and easy to protect, it still has some significant loose rock in sections. I dislodged 3-4 fist size rocks from deep inside the OW section, luckily my leg was stuffed in there and I was able to hold them off long enough to warn my belayer and make sure the rope was out of the way. There is also a very large loose block under the first roof (chalk x when I climbed it) and flakes inside the crack that flex ominously. Nov 18, 2018