Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Josh Smith, Erik Hanschen
Page Views: 53 total · 53/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Oct 22, 2019
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This is an interesting route for those in search of squeeze chimneys, but because it is on the second tier of rock above Moondog and because it has no anchor (we drilled bolts but the rock was too soft even for a half-inch sleeve bolt) it is unlikely to see much attention.  If you do go up there, start on the big ledge beneath a chimney that varies in width between 18 and 25 inches. Plug a few small pieces and then burrow into the chimney; wiggle back and forth and generally go inwards and upwards. There is a finger crack inside that you can protect.

We rapped off a small aspen right near the top of the route, then rapped again to get to the ground.

Location

When you're in the Sundog/Moondog area you can see the obvious big chimney in the alcove above.

Protection

A small selection of finger to hand sized pieces. Possible to place a #6 at the top.

Photos

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