Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 170 ft (52 m)|
|FA:||A. Miller, J. Smith|
|Page Views:||722 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||A Miller on Nov 29, 2014|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Chimney up a section of easy broken blocks,heading right around a corner to access the main dihedral. This leads to the base of the long steep corner. Lose your #6 in the wide pod at the lower part of the steep corner, and charge up through a wild overhanging dihedral with great hands and a short section of fingers lieback. Pull into the OW slot (some smaller gear in back) and squeeze up another 15 feet where you can place a #5 near the top. A little higher and you can reach the first bolt. At this point, you are 120' off the ground and you need to traverse left to a stance. A series of wildly exposed mantels and pocket pulling through two more bolts gets you back to the corner. One more small piece of gear protects a cool move that gets you to theledge with the anchor. 80m rope barely reaches with rope stretch.
Camalots: double rack to #3. #4, 5 and 6 are good to have, but crafty climbers can make do without them (but be sure to pack thin to tips gear for OW and and the extra 3 for the steep corner). Save a 00 or 0 piece for the top. May want extra 2 and 3. Draws too, there are three bolts to clip and you will want them to prevent rope drag in the OW at some point.