Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: A. Miller, J. Smith
Page Views: 222 total · 4/month
Shared By: Aaron Miller on Nov 29, 2014
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Arguably one of the most wild and varying routes in Capulin. Guaranteed to have something to please everyone.

Chimney up a section of easy broken blocks,heading right around a corner to access the main dihedral. This leads to the base of the long steep corner. Lose your #6 in the wide pod at the lower part of the steep corner, and charge up through a wild overhanging dihedral with great hands and a short section of fingers lieback. Pull into the OW slot (some smaller gear in back) and squeeze up another 15 feet where you can place a #5 near the top. A little higher and you can reach the first bolt. At this point, you are 120' off the ground and you need to traverse left to a stance. A series of wildly exposed mantels and pocket pulling through two more bolts gets you back to the corner. One more small piece of gear protects a cool move that gets you to theledge with the anchor. 80m rope barely reaches with rope stretch.

Location

This is the striking corner just left of Haymaker. Its an obviously huge feature that can be seen from a long way off.

Protection

A large and varied rack, but ideally you will ditch it all before you reach the headwall.
Camalots: double rack to #3. #4, 5 and 6 are good to have, but crafty climbers can make do without them (but be sure to pack thin to tips gear for OW and and the extra 3 for the steep corner). Save a 00 or 0 piece for the top. May want extra 2 and 3. Draws too, there are three bolts to clip and you will want them to prevent rope drag in the OW at some point.

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