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Routes in Upper Wall
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Achilles T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Adiós Alemanes T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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After Party Party T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Apostate, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Asterix and Oblelix T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Barracuda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Beasts of the Northern Wild T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Booster Seat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Buck Nasty T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Buck Up T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Burning Down the House T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Burning Man T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Burnt Tree Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Charlie's Six T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Chimenea T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Chimney Sweep T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chokecherry T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Chunnel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Divisions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dread Pirate Roberts T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Ephemeral Epitomist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Eternal Optimist T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Feeding Frenzy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fix T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Frogger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Full Monty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Glasnost Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Handyman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Haymaker, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hector T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Isengard T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Kev Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Magnum T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Methedras T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Moondog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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More Cowbell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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New Mexico Welcome Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Odyssey, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Opus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Percussion Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Psycho Killer T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Russian Jenga T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Shadow Boxing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Solstice T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Sundog T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tensioner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Tip of the Toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tips Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Title 9 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Trojan, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Und Foxi T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown Finger Crack T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Unnamed Wide Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Zozobra T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m) |
| FA: | A. Miller, J. Smith |
| Page Views: | 1,057 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | A Miller on Nov 29, 2014 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Arguably one of the most wild and varying routes in Capulin. Guaranteed to have something to please everyone.
Chimney up a section of easy broken blocks,heading right around a corner to access the main dihedral. This leads to the base of the long steep corner. Lose your #6 in the wide pod at the lower part of the steep corner, and charge up through a wild overhanging dihedral with great hands and a short section of fingers lieback. Pull into the OW slot (some smaller gear in back) and squeeze up another 15 feet where you can place a #5 near the top. A little higher and you can reach the first bolt. At this point, you are 120' off the ground and you need to traverse left to a stance. A series of wildly exposed mantels and pocket pulling through two more bolts gets you back to the corner. One more small piece of gear protects a cool move that gets you to theledge with the anchor. 80m rope barely reaches with rope stretch.
Chimney up a section of easy broken blocks,heading right around a corner to access the main dihedral. This leads to the base of the long steep corner. Lose your #6 in the wide pod at the lower part of the steep corner, and charge up through a wild overhanging dihedral with great hands and a short section of fingers lieback. Pull into the OW slot (some smaller gear in back) and squeeze up another 15 feet where you can place a #5 near the top. A little higher and you can reach the first bolt. At this point, you are 120' off the ground and you need to traverse left to a stance. A series of wildly exposed mantels and pocket pulling through two more bolts gets you back to the corner. One more small piece of gear protects a cool move that gets you to theledge with the anchor. 80m rope barely reaches with rope stretch.
Location
This is the striking corner just left of Haymaker. Its an obviously huge feature that can be seen from a long way off.
Protection
A large and varied rack, but ideally you will ditch it all before you reach the crux headwall 120' up. Here, the 12a move is bolted! Can I call this a sport climb?
Camalots: double rack to #3. #4, 5 and 6 are good to have, but crafty climbers can make do without them (but be sure to pack thin to tips gear for OW and and the extra 3 for the steep corner). Save a 00 or 0 piece for the top. May want extra 2 and 3. Draws too, there are three bolts to clip and you will want them to prevent rope drag in the OW at some point.
Camalots: double rack to #3. #4, 5 and 6 are good to have, but crafty climbers can make do without them (but be sure to pack thin to tips gear for OW and and the extra 3 for the steep corner). Save a 00 or 0 piece for the top. May want extra 2 and 3. Draws too, there are three bolts to clip and you will want them to prevent rope drag in the OW at some point.
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