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Routes in Upper Wall

Achilles T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
AdiĆ³s Alemanes T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
After Party Party T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Apostate, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Asterix and Oblelix T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barracuda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Beasts of the Northern Wild T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Booster Seat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Buck Nasty T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Buck Up T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Burning Man T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burnt Tree Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney Sweep T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chunnel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Divisions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dread Pirate Roberts T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ephemeral Epitomist. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eternal Optimist T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Feeding Frenzy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fix T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frogger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Full Monty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Glasnost Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Handyman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haymaker, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hector T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Isengard T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Kev Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magnum T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Methedras T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moondog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Mexico Welcome Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Odyssey, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Opus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Percussion Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Psycho Killer T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Russian Jenga T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shadow Boxing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solstice T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sundog T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tensioner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tip of the Toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tips Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Title 9 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trojan, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Und Foxi T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Finger Crack T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed Wide Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Zozobra T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 165 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Josh Smith, Jason Halladay
Page Views: 699 total, 14/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Oct 29, 2013 with updates
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

The most obvious clean dihedral on the upper wall. Good as a reference point. Pitch 1 is fun fingers and hands (5.10). Belay on a big ledge about 70 feet up. P2 is an amazing stretch of stemming and thin climbing (5.11+).

Location

About a third of the way down the upper wall. The most obvious clean dihedral on this wall.

Protection

P1 takes finger to hand sizes. P2 #3s useful. P2: 2 or 3 each 0.4 to #2. One #3 useful for just below the single bolt. Possible to place good medium nuts.

Photos

Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11+
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
  5.11+
Agreed Aaron. I always thought the first pitch was a good route by itself! The 2nd pitch is icing on the cake and one of the MUST DO pitches at Capulun!! Feb 20, 2015
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
Pitch 1 climbs better than it looks. Pitch 2 is amazing. Bring a set of C3s or similar, nuts work too. #3 cam not necessary, but can be used. The rock quality on this route is spectacular. Feb 19, 2015