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Crescent Loon
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 4
votes
Early Access
Routes in Main Wall
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Black Primo T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Blue Moon T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Casual Route T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Chameleon, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Cheeseburger in Paradise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Comes a Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crescent Loon T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Cross, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dingomaniaque S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Dr. Gizmo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Emotional Rescue T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Feeling Edgy T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Feeling Like a Lizard in Paradise T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Garden of Earthly Delights, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hidden Secrets T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Hippo's Dance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Honey Pot Dihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Horse Chaser T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Horse Play T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hot Wee Wee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Just Another 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Lowe/Kudo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Morning Glory T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Opharian Complex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Panda Express T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Post Office Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rainbow Warrior S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Reckoner T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sailing Shoes T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Savelli Express T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Smokin’ Toasters T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Toetally aka Shoe Recall T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Total Recall S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Trout-Jamieson T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Undecided T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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White Salamander S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Y Not Continue? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Y-Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 37.86049, -107.86525 |
| FA: | Bill Kees, 1973 |
| Page Views: | 760 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Spencer Coon on Jul 4, 2019 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Crescent Loon is another really cool and varied, moderate trad route on Ophir Main Wall. Start just to the right of two low bolts, and make some power moves on positive and incut crimps to get off the ground. Plug your first pieces in the crack that leads up to Just Another 5.9, and traverse slightly right into the series of diagonal cracks (super cool rock!) that leads to easier climbing above. Traverse back left once the holds and crack run out. Here I think it's a bit PG-13. You can sling a horn and extend before pulling a short / easy overhang. Plug some medium cams in a slot, and then climb final slab moves traversing up and left to a two bolt anchor.
Alternatively from the "traverse" section per Jeff Dobronyi: traverse slightly right into the series of diagonal cracks (super cool rock!) that leads to easier climbing above. Move up and right to a 2 bolt anchor.
Location
Just to the right of two low bolts (Getting Bent, 5.10d) and one to the right of Just Another 5.9.
Protection
I took a double set of Totems / cams 0.2 - 3.0 - you could definitely do less if confident at grade. The first 3/4 takes tons of gear - then a bit runout.
Alternatively per Jeff Dobronyi: a standard rack with doubles in the finger sizes and a 60m rope.
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