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Arresto Momentum
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
Early Access
Routes in C. Wizard's Gate
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Afterlife S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Arresto Momentum S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Arrival (removed July 21, 2022), The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Black Magic S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Book of Daggers S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Book of Momentum S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Book of Spells S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cloak and Dagger S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Crystal Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dark Horse S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dead End T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Edgy Wizard, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fantasia T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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G3 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gatekeeper, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gizmo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gremlin S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Guillotine, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Magic Carpet Ride S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Magic Dagger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Merlin's Magic Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Once and Future King, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Return of the King S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Riding with the Ravens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Stone Potion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Take Me to Your Leader S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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White Raven, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Witchway Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wizard's Key S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wizard's Path S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 40.30276, -105.52422 |
| FA: | Chris Weidner, Celin Serbo, September 5, 2016 |
| Page Views: | 1,766 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Weidner on Sep 8, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Area closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED
Details
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area WAS closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area WAS blocked off. That has been rescinded.
Description
Arresto Momentum is an attractive, overhanging crack. Make a few moves rightward over the abyss (place first gear in Book of Spells, then backclean) to reach the rightmost crack. Climb this as it becomes a vague, left-facing corner, encountering a tricky roof along the way. Angle up and leftward via the path of least resistance to a bolted anchor shared with Book of Spells.
The rock and protection are generally very good.
Alternately, per Japhy Dhungana: with permission from the FA, Arresto Momentum has been retrobolted into a fully bolted sport climb in summer 2026. The climb now hosts 13 lead bolts to an independent, 2 bolt anchor just to the right of Book of Spells. It is set up for both a stickclipped start as well as to lead from the ground up. In addition, because of the exposure at the belay station, there is now a 2 bolt belay station right at the base of the climb to alleviate crowding. Now, a party can be on both Book of Spells and Arresto Momentum at the same time and not interfere with each other.
For folks who want to climb the route with traditional gear (preserved for historical info): 1 each: nuts, cams to #0.3 Camalot and 2 each: #0.4 - #2 Camalot. Include half a dozen long slings. In addition, this climb has a lot of finger and hand-jamming, and for those who want to preserve their skin from the sharp sub-alpine gneiss, a pair of hand-jammies or tape can be nice.
Protection
Originally: 1 each: nuts, cams to #0.3 Camalot. 2 each: #0.4 - #2 Camalot. Include half a dozen long slings.
Per Japhy Dhungana: it is now a fully bolted climb with 13 lead bolts.
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