Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Todd Anderson
Page Views: 561 total · 7/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 23, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This line has some nice rock and engaging movement, but a large ledge between the 2nd & 3rd bolts makes for a risky outing. The crux is basically the 2-3 body lengths of climbing directly above the ledge, and it would be hard for your belayer to keep you from hitting the ledge in the event of a fall. This would make a nice TR after climbing Illegal Smile, but if you're pushing your limits at the .12b grade, there are plenty of better options at Cactus.

Begin with attention-getting moves on sloping edges to summit a huge, detached flake. Once atop the ledge, traverse right to avoid blank rock. Make thin, reachy moves to get established on the wall, then contortionist high-steps and huge reaches to span the blankness between horizontal rails. A brief, juggy lieback ends at a good shake, then crank one more huge reach to a jug pocket before merging with Illegal Smile.

Location

At the left end of Cactus, this is immediately right of the classic buttress of "Illegal Smile".

Protection

~8 bolts to 2BA. The last 3 bolts & anchor are shared with Illegal Smile. The bolt line weaves quite a bit, so consider some long draws, or (better) use the Crimpin' & Pimpin' start to reach the top of the ledge.

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