Type: Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Todd Anderson, 1999
Page Views: 1,433 total · 9/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 23, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

11 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

This line has some nice rock and engaging movement, but a large ledge between the 2nd & 3rd bolts makes for a risky outing. The crux is basically the 2-3 body lengths of climbing directly above the ledge, and it would be hard for your belayer to keep you from hitting the ledge in the event of a fall. This would make a nice TR after climbing Illegal Smile, but if you're pushing your limits at the .12b grade, there are plenty of better options at Cactus.

Begin with attention-getting moves on sloping edges to summit a huge, detached flake. Once atop the ledge, traverse right to avoid blank rock. Make thin, reachy moves to get established on the wall, then contortionist high-steps and huge reaches to span the blankness between horizontal rails. A brief, juggy lieback ends at a good shake, then crank one more huge reach to a jug pocket before merging with Illegal Smile.

Location Suggest change

At the left end of Cactus, this is immediately right of the classic buttress of "Illegal Smile".

Protection Suggest change

~8 bolts to 2BA. The last 3 bolts & anchor are shared with Illegal Smile. The bolt line weaves quite a bit, so consider some long draws, or (better) use the Crimpin' & Pimpin' start to reach the top of the ledge.