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Centurion Enigma
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British PG13
Avg: 2.6 from 13
votes
Routes in A. Cactus Cliff Far Left (left of Muscle Beach)
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Alignment, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Awesome Offwidthin' T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Axis of Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Banana Split S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Barbed Wire Love S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beach Ball S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Blackman's Burden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Blond Princes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bran-Dan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cactus Pad S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Carnage (aka "Wild Virus") S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Cellulite District T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Centurion Enigma S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Crynoid Corner S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cure For The Common Crimp S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Da Fly S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Fantasia S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fast Food Nation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Flight of the Phoenix S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Gabby S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Glass Babies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Glue Slippage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hair Trigger S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Illegal Smile S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Institutional Meat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Joy of Cholla, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jumpin' the Gun S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Killer Toupee, The T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Leisure Class S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Misalignment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pick a Peck of Perfect Pulling Pockets S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Purple Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Six Pack O' Whoop-Ass S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Slicer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spray Lord S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Super Suka S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Three-Quarter Ton S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unnamed (aka Slab n' Vein) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Working Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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World Peace S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 38.6324, -105.22269 |
| FA: | Bob D'Antonio, Todd Anderson, 1999 |
| Page Views: | 1,516 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Nov 23, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This line has some nice rock and engaging movement, but a large ledge between the 2nd & 3rd bolts makes for a risky outing. The crux is basically the 2-3 body lengths of climbing directly above the ledge, and it would be hard for your belayer to keep you from hitting the ledge in the event of a fall. This would make a nice TR after climbing Illegal Smile, but if you're pushing your limits at the .12b grade, there are plenty of better options at Cactus.
Begin with attention-getting moves on sloping edges to summit a huge, detached flake. Once atop the ledge, traverse right to avoid blank rock. Make thin, reachy moves to get established on the wall, then contortionist high-steps and huge reaches to span the blankness between horizontal rails. A brief, juggy lieback ends at a good shake, then crank one more huge reach to a jug pocket before merging with Illegal Smile.
Location
At the left end of Cactus, this is immediately right of the classic buttress of "Illegal Smile".
Protection
~8 bolts to 2BA. The last 3 bolts & anchor are shared with Illegal Smile. The bolt line weaves quite a bit, so consider some long draws, or (better) use the Crimpin' & Pimpin' start to reach the top of the ledge.
3 Comments