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Unnamed (aka Slab n' Vein)
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Cactus Cliff
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Affluenza S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Afterburner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Agave S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Alexi's Climb S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Alignment, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Almost French S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Almost Gothic S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Amiga S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Are You Experiential? S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Awesome Offwidthin' T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Axis of Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Banana Split S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Barbed Wire Love S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beach Ball S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Beef Cake Formula S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bionic Minnow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Black Slabbeth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Blackman's Burden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Blade Runner S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blarney Stone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blond Princes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bombodido S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Book of Dude-Aronomy, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bur-Har-Bur S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cactus Cliff Addict S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Candy for Big Kids S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Carnage (aka "Wild Virus") S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Cellulite District T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Centurion Enigma S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Cheeseburger In Paradise S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Child's Play S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Chompin' at the Cholla S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Christmas Tree S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Chunky Monkey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cobra S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Commitment S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Confusiasm S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Crimpson Candy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Critic's Choice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cro-Magnum S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crynoid Corner S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cure For The Common Crimp S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Da Fly S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Dances with Cholla S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dereliction Affliction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dihedrus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Divinity School S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Don't Be Messin' With Ma Moves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Early Bird S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Escalando S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Et Tu, Brutus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fantasia S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fast Food Nation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fiscal Cliff S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fishisms T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flight of the Phoenix S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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French Are Here, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Fully Equipped S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Funkdemental S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gabby S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Glass Babies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Glue Slippage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Good Red Road, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gravitations S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Great Expectations S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hair Trigger S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Half Breed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hero Driver S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hey Pueblo Gringo, Got a Hanger? S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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High Heeled Tittty Twister S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hot Beach S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hurricane Hinzi S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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I Claudius S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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I Lean S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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I'm Having A Vision S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Ian's Climb S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Illegal Smile S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Impulsive Hands S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Institutional Meat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Jamuary S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Joy of Cholla, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jumpin' the Gun S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Just Thesenga It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Kalahari Sidewinder S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Killer Toupee, The T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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King Louie's Traverse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Kipu Pawkets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kodachrome S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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La Temperatura de Shelf S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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LaCholla Jackson S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lats Don't Have Feelings S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Legend on the Fall S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Leisure Class S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Manly Bulges S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Midget Toss S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Misalignment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Morning Joe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mr. Fred T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Muscle Beach S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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New Ethics S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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New World Order S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ol' 47 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Oscar de la Cholla S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Out There Take Anything S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Paleolithic Tool Traditions S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Part Muffalo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pick Pocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Politically Incorrect S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Poquito Mas S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Puff Daddy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Purple Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Quarterback S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Quasi Quasar S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Raven, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Reach Around, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Red Eclipse S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Red Giant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Redman's Burden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Relampago S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Richard Simmons' Tanktop S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Risky Business S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shelf Pride S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Short Man's Burden S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Six More Bottles of Bosco S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Six Pack O' Whoop-Ass S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Slicer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Solar Eclipse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Southern Belle S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spray Lord S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Squeeze the Moment S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Stand, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Super Suka S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sweet Sam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Third Stage S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Three-Quarter Ton S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thumbs Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tits Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Too Much Beef and Not Enough Meat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Total Recount S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Totally Blonde S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Turkey's Bleak S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Two For One S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Under A Blood Red Wall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unnamed (aka Slab n' Vein) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Usual Suspects, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Utter To A Scream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wadsworth Boulevard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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White Punks on Pockets S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Whiteman's Burden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Working Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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World Peace S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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You Show Me Your Heavy Weapon, I'll Show You Mine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft |
| FA: | Glenn Schuler |
| Page Views: | 383 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | slim on Feb 11, 2016 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Description
Slab n' Vein is a nice route with great position that has the unfortunate reputation of being painful. Overall, the climbing is very good, and it probably isn't any more painful than the typical Shelf 12, assuming your feet don't slip when you have your finger in the potato peeler mono....
Begin at the start of the Illegal Smile arete, clipping the first 3 bolts of that route and then stepping left onto a big ledge (instead of moving out right onto the IS arete).
Get a good chalk and proceed upwards for about 3 bolts on easy but fun climbing. A tricky, circus trick crux off small crimps and awkward feet lets off to snag a quick clip before moving upward into a big move to good holds (which you wish you could easily clip from, but unfortunately cannot...). Another big move gets you out of here but lands you at a strenuous, runout clip, which you really do not want to blow. (If you are redpointing, a long runner is helpful here).
If you have made it this far, the rest of the route is fun, maybe 11-ish, techy climbing interspersed with some rests.
This route would probably be popular if the protection was sorted out a bit better. If the bolt at the end of the crux was moved down 3 feet, it would bump the quality up another star. I thought the overall difficulty was on par with most of the classic 12a-12b routes in the area, provided you can figure out the crux. The first time you try to do the crux it feels very improbable, but once you do it you can repeat it pretty much every time.
Hopefully some more folks will give this route a try.
Begin at the start of the Illegal Smile arete, clipping the first 3 bolts of that route and then stepping left onto a big ledge (instead of moving out right onto the IS arete).
Get a good chalk and proceed upwards for about 3 bolts on easy but fun climbing. A tricky, circus trick crux off small crimps and awkward feet lets off to snag a quick clip before moving upward into a big move to good holds (which you wish you could easily clip from, but unfortunately cannot...). Another big move gets you out of here but lands you at a strenuous, runout clip, which you really do not want to blow. (If you are redpointing, a long runner is helpful here).
If you have made it this far, the rest of the route is fun, maybe 11-ish, techy climbing interspersed with some rests.
This route would probably be popular if the protection was sorted out a bit better. If the bolt at the end of the crux was moved down 3 feet, it would bump the quality up another star. I thought the overall difficulty was on par with most of the classic 12a-12b routes in the area, provided you can figure out the crux. The first time you try to do the crux it feels very improbable, but once you do it you can repeat it pretty much every time.
Hopefully some more folks will give this route a try.
Location
Slab n/ Vein tackles the narrow west face to the left of the Illegal Smile arete, near the far left side of Cactus Cliff.
Photos
- No Photos -
Monument, Co.
When I first tried it, there was definitely some loose stuff on it, including a dinner plate that came off and almost killed one of my friend's kids below (don't tell him, I don't think he knows, he or the young one for that matter - little dude just kept playing like nothing happened, he is probably used to that sort of thing... I nearly crapped myself :). I don't think too many people have done it.
Bolting is definitely classic Glenn/Kevin - doesn't phase you guys but most mortals will find them 'engaging'... the climbing is really cool on it, and the position is excellent. Feb 16, 2016