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Routes in A. Cactus Cliff Far Left (left of Muscle Beach)
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Alignment, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Awesome Offwidthin' T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Axis of Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Banana Split S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Barbed Wire Love S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beach Ball S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Blackman's Burden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Blond Princes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bran-Dan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cactus Pad S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Carnage (aka "Wild Virus") S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Cellulite District T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Centurion Enigma S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Crynoid Corner S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cure For The Common Crimp S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Da Fly S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Fantasia S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fast Food Nation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Flight of the Phoenix S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Gabby S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Glass Babies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Glue Slippage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hair Trigger S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Illegal Smile S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Institutional Meat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Joy of Cholla, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jumpin' the Gun S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Killer Toupee, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Leisure Class S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Misalignment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pick a Peck of Perfect Pulling Pockets S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Purple Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Six Pack O' Whoop-Ass S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Slicer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spray Lord S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Super Suka S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Three-Quarter Ton S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unnamed (aka Slab n' Vein) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Working Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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World Peace S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 38.6324, -105.22269 |
| FA: | Kevin McLaughlin, 1995. FFA: Dan Durland or Kurt Smith |
| Page Views: | 3,649 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Adam Holmes on Feb 2, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Climb through the nice looking, steep, black streak right of the Working Man/Pick Pocket area (see the photo). Solo up to a ledge to the first bolt or use your 25 foot long stick clip. Seriously, the climbing to the first bolt is not too hard, but something could easily break. A bolt or two should definitely be added to the start.
The crux is moving through the first bulge and up the white headwall. Pulling the bulge is a little beta intensive, and many, many chalked holds exist here to confuse the situation. This is a pretty nice, power endurance section.
Arrive at a very good jug to rest below the black streak. I may have cheated through this black bulge by moving 4 feet left of the bolt line, but I can't see a way to get through otherwise. The black bulge looks awesome but has pretty worthless holds and is the steepest part of the route. For this route to be 13a, I think the climber must move left at this point. Please let me know if there is some great beta to stay within the bolt-line. Despite the traversing, the climbing stays fun with a little endurance pump all the way to the chains.
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