Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Kevin McLaughlin, 1995. FFA: Dan Durland or Kurt Smith
Page Views: 2,107 total · 10/month
Shared By: Adam Holmes on Feb 2, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Climb through the nice looking, steep, black streak right of the Working Man/Pick Pocket area (see the photo). Solo up to a ledge to the first bolt or use your 25 foot long stick clip. Seriously, the climbing to the first bolt is not too hard, but something could easily break. A bolt or two should definitely be added to the start.

The crux is moving through the first bulge and up the white headwall. Pulling the bulge is a little beta intensive, and many, many chalked holds exist here to confuse the situation. This is a pretty nice, power endurance section.

Arrive at a very good jug to rest below the black streak. I may have cheated through this black bulge by moving 4 feet left of the bolt line, but I can't see a way to get through otherwise. The black bulge looks awesome but has pretty worthless holds and is the steepest part of the route. For this route to be 13a, I think the climber must move left at this point. Please let me know if there is some great beta to stay within the bolt-line. Despite the traversing, the climbing stays fun with a little endurance pump all the way to the chains.

Protection

8 bolts + anchors.

Photos

Originally bolted by Kevin McLaughlin is my guess and I have heard that Kurt Smith supposedly did the FA, but I have also heard that I did the FA - who knows. There used to be 2 or 3 bolts in the lower section but these were stripped along time ago and need to be replaced for a safer start. The upper crux can be climbed by moving slightly right of the bolt line but not all the way over to Glue Slippage; this is more in line with the route then going way to the left. As a side note, the upper crux goes straight up on the crappy hold if you throw a big dyno or are very short but the grade goes up a letter or two. Mar 19, 2002
Just did this thing today. Pretty fun. I felt it was probably a pretty solid 13b def not an A. For the upper crux, I did an all points off dyno from one horizontal to the next. No climbing around the bolts. Feb 21, 2009
abc
abc  
I pulled off the big clipping hold over the bulge. Now you have to clip off of the sloper undercling or the sideways dyno hold, and then go from there all the way up to the two finger pockets. It feels quite a bit harder to me. Jun 10, 2009
urs
urs  
I got on this route yesterday and felt the bottom bulge is about V8 to a clip off the horrible pinches and crimps over the bulge. If you blow the clip, there is potential to easily deck on the ledge.... The second bulge I messed around with until finally I gave up and headed right and found a sequence a little close to the route to the right. Using that sequence I could easily seeing as 13b with a really scary clip at the crux. Sep 25, 2011
Noah Kaufman
Fort Collins, CO
  5.13b/c PG13
Noah Kaufman   Fort Collins, CO
  5.13b/c PG13
Great route. I clipped off of 2 crimps with bad feet after undercling. Then up through the pocket. At upper bulge, I did the massive straight up dyno which was RADICAL. Amazing move. Don't know the grade, but it is harder than The Example, hard b or c perhaps with the dyno which felt about V7/8. I like this climb a lot actually. Was prob 13a with the left traverse, which I saw and tried post facto just to know. Didn't try the right sequence. The dyno is the way unless you are smaller stature, and then the right sequence seems more in line. Out left seems off and too far away. Dec 20, 2014
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Here is an update for fall 15' as this route doesn't get done much. The first two bolts are missing hangers. We used the first two on Glue Slippage hanging a long at the second, and it worked fine. Holds have clearly broke at bulge one due to comments from previous suitors. First bulge is now the crux of the entire route and is probably in the V8 arena. Doubling up some draws above the first bulge makes it easier to clip. The clip above the first bulge to protect the crux moves is extremely strenuous from an undercling pinch. It's a touch one. The dyno up top, although cool can easily be avoided by going right or left and skipping it altogether. I think it's worth doing if you have done every route at Cactus and are looking for the final few hard ones, although I think this route is far from classic status. Nov 23, 2015
Rebolted in 2016. Hardware courtesy of the ASCA, consider a donation today @ safeclimbing.org. Apr 28, 2016
eddie m  
I thought this thing was dooope. I found the low bulge to be quite challenging and pretty sequential, and the dyno to be one of the wildest things I've done on a rope. Avoiding that sequence seem lame and would seemingly require you to stray a ways from the rest of the line. Sharp but rad. Jan 14, 2018