Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas, 2000
Page Views: 7,883 total · 38/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Mar 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


287 Opinions

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Description

Another of the great 5.10s at Cactus. Start two routes left of a huge corner (Cellulite District), following a small, right-facing corner for a few feet to a ledge. Back left to a big flake and an easy runout to a stance under a crimpy wall. Pick your way to the top past many bolts on excellent sharp rock.

Protection

9 bolts + anchor.
I had been passing this up for a while because of the rather bland way it looked from the ground but I just got off it today and it's all it's claimed to be! A MUST do!!Cruxy from the get-go but don't worry about the sharp factor,it's not bad at all, call it "enhanced friction" on the continous series of fantastic crimps and glory pockets! One of the best 10s at Shelf!! Apr 9, 2002
Kevin Currigan
Lakewood
Kevin Currigan   Lakewood
Great route! After the fun flakes on the lower part and a few more pumpy moves there is a great ledge you can cheat over to and rest for the upper part. Given the amount of chalk there I would guess this is done often. I know I took advantage of it. Its also easy to get back onto the line from the ledge. Dec 23, 2003
Larry Shaw
  5.10c
Larry Shaw  
  5.10c
The bottom section goes further right than one might think...excellent route with an exciting finish. I remember the feet being really good on this one. Sep 4, 2004
"I remember the feet being really good on this one."

Not anymore. I broke what seems to be a key foothold right below the slight bulge about half way up. Could've finished it with the foot, but without, I had to bail. My opinion is a grade or 2 harder now, maybe 11a. Oct 2, 2006
Dave Meyers
Evergreen, CO
Dave Meyers   Evergreen, CO
I'm not sure about the location of broken foothold, but I just did this route last weekend, and it is still .10b/c, and yes it is still one of the best 10s at Cactus. Dec 17, 2006
Kevin Detlor
BOZEMAN
 
Kevin Detlor   BOZEMAN
 
I hopped on this route at the end of my day and had an absolute BLAST on it. It has basically all types of climbing, steep in parts, slabby in sections, and really balancy, and heck if you skip the last bolt and head to the right, there is even some kinda fun crack climbing too. A must do when at Cactus. May 18, 2007
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
 
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
 
This route is a must do if you don't have to wait in line to climb it. I agree this was a 5.10b maybe 5.10b/c. All the holds are there but near the top where the rock gets black and sharp you may need to figure out your grip. Jan 29, 2008
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
Good crimps, cool pockets, great jugs and a little traversing at the bottom. Even a bit pumpy. For those of you homesick from the New River Gorge (like me) this climb has a few holds that might remind you of home. Mar 23, 2008
Caleb Phillips
Boulder, CO
  5.10b/c
Caleb Phillips   Boulder, CO
  5.10b/c
10c if you take the baby-roof direct. There's a nice ledge to deadpoint left to from a R-hand undercling. Then pull up like a thug. If you bail left at the roof onto the chunky stuff it's 10b IMHO and a less interesting climb (the chunky stuff blows the aesthetic on the lower section a little bit). Oct 19, 2009
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b/c
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b/c
Great climb! I don't think there's a move harder than .10b, but this route is very sustained and quite pumpy. Nov 10, 2010
mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
  5.10b/c
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
  5.10b/c
It's all about the right hand. My right arm seemed to get pretty pumped on this. Nov 22, 2010
Dan B.
Denver, CO
Dan B.   Denver, CO
As of 11/19/11, THE BOLT HANGERS ON THIS ROUTE ARE WORN ABOUT 3/4 OF THE WAY THROUGH (there are no quick-links, rings or chains). Who knows when I'll be back, but if anyone wishes to take the initiative of replacing the hangers (with quick-clips would be ideal), the Shelf community would be forever grateful. The route is travelled so frequently, it should really have better hardware. Thanks! Nov 20, 2011
John W
Estes Park
  5.10+
John W   Estes Park
  5.10+
Hangers still worn down as of 12/06/12. Do not top rope off them and bring an ATC to lower yourself off; otherwise safe and quite fun. Dec 10, 2012
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
ANCHORS ARE FIXED.
Updated the anchor again on 1/18/13 with s/s ASCA bolt and quicklinks. Added a short chain to right bolt to equalize. Anchor should be good to go for a while now. Jan 21, 2013
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
Despite being a well-traveled 15 year old route, I unexpectedly pulled off a large, well-chalked hold just left of the first bolt. Ended up with a bruised heel but could've been much worse. It's a little reachier getting to the nice left hand pocket, but the grade hasn't changed. Sep 29, 2015
Isaac Mauro
Fort Collins, CO
 
Isaac Mauro   Fort Collins, CO
 
I had a really hard time on this one after a long day of climbing, the pump was full on the entire route. There is a somewhat pointless runout after the 3rd bolt on easy enough terrain, but there is definitely groundfall potential. With how close all the other bolts are, I don't really understand why there isn't another one between the 3rd and 4th. The 11a to the left felt significantly easier, but I think it was just because of how tired I was. Oct 14, 2018