Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike Johnson, Dale Goddard, 1985
Page Views: 1,815 total · 11/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 19, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

About 50 feet to the left of the Tits Up/Hot Beach area on the left side of Cactus is a nice section of cliff with a distinct bulge about 30 feet off the ground. Two routes climb this section of cliff with the left route being Da Fly (13a). The right route that shares the same start with Da Fly is Glue Slippage.

After climbing the scary loose start of Da Fly, move slightly right to a ledge system below the bulge. Move up to the bulge (tricky), and then make burly moves along an overhung, right-trending seam with difficult clipping stances (crux). At the top of the seam, move left onto a thin headwall with sustained climbing to the anchors.

This is a Cactus Cliff three star, for out-of-the-ordinary steepness for Shelf and historical reasons (since it is rumored to be the first route at Shelf).

Protection

8 or 9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Stefan Griebel
Boulder, Colorado
 
Stefan Griebel   Boulder, Colorado
 
This climb looks great from the ground, but compared to the many other great climbs at Cactus Cliff, I felt this one was mediocre. It starts with 25' of chossy, easy climbing. The next 3-4 bolts up the steep arcing crack feature are fantastic and pretty hard. The final crux involves (for me) pulling on a hollow-sounding Frisbee-sized flake. I predict that this flake will soon be tossed just like a Frisbee thus making the route a bit harder. Due to the chossy start, creaky flake, and non-sustained overall nature, I can only give this climb 1 star. The star is earned by the fun and hard moves up the crack with a touch of historical perspective. Oct 22, 2007
Bill Ballace
Pullman,WA
 
Bill Ballace   Pullman,WA
 
Anyone climbing at this level will certainly understand the subtlety of pulling down rather than out when they reach the "Frisbee" in question. Certainly this route is better than one star. Not a classic, but very good, and well worth doing, especially for the unique lower crux. Nov 12, 2007
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.12b
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.12b
Apparently it's just me, but I thought this route was awesome. True, the first 20 feet aren't classic, but that goes for many a route at shelf. The crux moves are full value; unique, techy, powerful and fun. The top lets off somewhat, but is sustained and keeps you on your toes. This one got me syked up and smiling. Jun 15, 2009
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.12b
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.12b
Finally sent this one after trying it here and there for a few years. Still feel the same, this is an awesome route. I did not, however, come across any frisbee-sized flakes near the top, and there was definitely a redpoint or at least onsight crux up there. There were a few hollow sounding holds at the rest in the middle, but it's easy to tread lightly on them. If you're tired of just pulling on crimps and pockets, this is the one for you! Jan 27, 2013
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
It is baffling to me that this was the "first sport route" at Shelf... Jan 20, 2015
Rebolted in 2016. Hardware courtesy of the ASCA, consider a donation today @ safeclimbing.org.
I think the mixed reviews on this one mainly come from the large amount of choss that was left uncleaned very close to the bolt line. I removed a couple hundred pounds worth (does not affect the climbing), this route climbs beautifully and deserves the attention. Apr 28, 2016
Derek Young
Denver, CO
Derek Young   Denver, CO
  • CLIMBERS BEWARE - MY DRAWS WERE STOLEN OFF THIS ROUTE
I left my draws up on this route starting with bolt 4 to begin the crux and through to the top. That's 8 draws. I hung them for project burns and for others to have fun. This was mid-Oct. Went back this past weekend Dec 1st and they were taken. I guess poaching draws still happens at Shelf. Watch out everyone! This route is 12b so all fingers point to someone who climbs the grade - or takes the time to steal by aiding a route. If anybody sees them, they are 7 BD Posiwire with replaced vari-width dogbones, and 1 two red carabiner tan colored, thin dogbone. All bolt sides had green tape marking them as mine. It'd be really swell if the person gave them back. Bad form!

Needless to say, I won't be leaving gear on routes anymore and wish the best to those that still have gear up on Deeper Shade, The Example, etc. What's next, the perma-draws off Headcheese?! Oct 29, 2017