Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Mike Johnson, Dale Goddard, 1985
Page Views: 3,010 total · 14/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 19, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

About 50 feet to the left of the Tits Up/Hot Beach area on the left side of Cactus is a nice section of cliff with a distinct bulge about 30 feet off the ground. Two routes climb this section of cliff with the left route being Da Fly (13a). The right route that shares the same start with Da Fly is Glue Slippage.

After climbing the scary loose start of Da Fly, move slightly right to a ledge system below the bulge. Move up to the bulge (tricky), and then make burly moves along an overhung, right-trending seam with difficult clipping stances (crux). At the top of the seam, move left onto a thin headwall with sustained climbing to the anchors.

This is a Cactus Cliff three star, for out-of-the-ordinary steepness for Shelf and historical reasons (since it is rumored to be the first route at Shelf).

Protection Suggest change

8 or 9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.