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Routes in Cactus Cliff

Affluenza S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Afterburner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Agave S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alexi's Climb S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Alignment, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Almost French S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Almost Gothic S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Amiga S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Are You Experiential? S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Awesome Offwidthin' T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Axis of Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Banana Split S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbed Wire Love S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beach Ball S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beef Cake Formula S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bionic Minnow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Slabbeth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blackman's Burden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blade Runner S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blarney Stone, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blond Princes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bombodido S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Book of Dude-Aronomy, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bur-Har-Bur S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cactus Cliff Addict S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Candy for Big Kids S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Carnage (aka "Wild Virus") S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Cellulite District T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Centurion Enigma S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Cheeseburger In Paradise S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Child's Play S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chompin' at the Cholla S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Christmas Tree S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chunky Monkey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cobra S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Commitment S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Crimpson Candy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Critic's Choice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cro-Magnum S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crynoid Corner S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cure For The Common Crimp S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Da Fly S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dances with Cholla S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dereliction Affliction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dihedrus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Divinity School S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Don't Be Messin' With Ma Moves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Early Bird S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Escalando S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Et Tu, Brutus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fantasia S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fast Food Nation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fiscal Cliff S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fishisms T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight of the Phoenix S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
French Are Here, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fully Equipped S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Funkdemental S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gabby S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glass Babies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Glue Slippage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Good Red Road, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gravitations S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Great Expectations S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hair Trigger S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Half Breed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hero Driver S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hey Pueblo Gringo, Got a Hanger? S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
High Heeled Tittty Twister S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hot Beach S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hurricane Hinzi S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
I Claudius S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I Lean S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I'm Having A Vision S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Ian's Climb S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Illegal Smile S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Impulsive Hands S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Institutional Meat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jamuary S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joy of Cholla, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jumpin' the Gun S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Just Thesenga It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kalahari Sidewinder S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Killer Toupee, The T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
King Louie's Traverse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kipu Pawkets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kodachrome S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
La Temperatura de Shelf S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
LaCholla Jackson S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lats Don't Have Feelings S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Legend on the Fall S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Leisure Class S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Manly Bulges S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Midget Toss S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Misalignment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Morning Joe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mr. Fred T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Muscle Beach S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
New Ethics S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New World Order S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ol' 47 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oscar de la Cholla S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out There Take Anything S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paleolithic Tool Traditions S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Part Muffalo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pick Pocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Politically Incorrect S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poquito Mas S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Puff Daddy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quarterback S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quasi Quasar S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raven, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Reach Around, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Eclipse S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Giant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Redman's Burden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Relampago S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Richard Simmons' Tanktop S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Risky Business S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shelf Pride S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Short Man's Burden S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Six More Bottles of Bosco S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Six Pack O' Whoop-Ass S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slicer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solar Eclipse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southern Belle S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spray Lord S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squeeze the Moment S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stand, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Super Suka S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sweet Sam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Third Stage S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Three-Quarter Ton S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thumbs Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tits Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Too Much Beef and Not Enough Meat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Total Recount S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Totally Blonde S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Turkey's Bleak T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two For One S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Under A Blood Red Wall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unnamed (aka Slab n' Vein) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Usual Suspects, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Utter To A Scream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wadsworth Boulevard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
White Punks on Pockets S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whiteman's Burden S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
World Peace S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
You Show Me Your Heavy Weapon, I'll Show You Mine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Steve Cheney, Ric Geiman belayed, 1987
Page Views: 6,998 total, 53/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Mar 10, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

It seems that this good pitch doesn't get as much traffic as it merits because of a somewhat undeserved reputation as unsafe. Good rock, position and continuouness on the upper section.

Start in a left-facing corner, on the left side of the arete, just left of a wide, 20' high flake. Go up easily for a couple of bolts, then move right and gain the arete (crux). Follow enjoyable climbing on the right side of the arete to the anchors.

There is some cause for concern that a fall around the 4th and 5th bolts could land you on the flake. Since the harder moves in this section are by the bolts, this hazard shouldn't come in to play though the belayer should pay close attention and minimize slack through this section.

Location

This is on a prominent, left-facing arete at the left end of Cactus.

Protection

11 bolts.
A. Bandos
Broomfield
A. Bandos   Broomfield
Is the intended line supposed to stem and eventually stand on the detached flake down low? I avoided it, but definitely pumped out on the OS attempt. Oct 25, 2015
Aaron Moses
Richmond, Va
 
Aaron Moses   Richmond, Va
 
Great route, but beware of the big killer flake just before you move right from the arete. It seemed solid as I climbed the route but became a lot scarier when I looked behind it. Jun 3, 2015
One of the best 5.11 routes at Shelf Road. A good length climb with a few cruxes. Nov 25, 2014
Ben Hall
Boulder, Colorado
 
Ben Hall   Boulder, Colorado
 
Onsight! Classic route! A little bit exposed but great climbing on manageable crimps! Feb 14, 2013
For the record, this was Steve Cheney's route. I was belayer and second ascent. Yup, John Prine inspired. Jan 19, 2013
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
 
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
 
Keep in mind, this route was completely rebolted in 2005 (or so), and much of danger in the clips that previously would have landed you on the ledge was removed. The direct start was added at that time. The original gear was complete garbage, including the top anchor which consisted of one split shaft bolt (circa 1980s) and a drilled pin, which I wiggled out with my fingers. Talk about scary! In addition, about 200 lbs of loose rock was cleaned off the route. The result is a pristine, clean, and safe route, one that IMO is one of the best of the grade at Shelf. Feb 24, 2012
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11a
I didn't feel any reason for concern around the 4th-5th bolt and the ledge. Felt safe to me and I'm 6'5" with a light belayer, FWIW. Dec 22, 2010
"Illegal Smile" is a song by John Prine, check it out. I guess the FA was a fan. Jan 25, 2008